• 15146

    Hive Gallery

    The Hive Gallery features photos of beehives, honey bees, honey . . . whatever readers have sent me. Explore

  • 15148

    Cookbook

    Not for you, for them. Find recipes for all those tantalizing treats like sugar cakes, pollen substitute, and grease patties. Explore

  • 15142

    How-to

    Find links to the most popular posts on how to do everything from building a frame to moving a hive. Explore

  • 15147

    Glossary

    The glossary is constantly updated with definitions, acronyms, initialisms, and links to Wordphile discussions. Explore

Who reuses old frames?

Cleaning used frames is one of those mind-numbing chores that ranks with weeding, ironing shirts, and washing dishes. When I pull old frames from a hive, I put them somewhere—temporarily—until I can get to them. Such temporary placement evolves into years because almost anything else gets priority.

When—and if—I eventually get around to it, I scrape them free of propolis and beeswax and cut away any framing wires. Even on a cool day, it all feels gross. On a hot day . . . well, I can’t let go of anything I touch. Messy, sticky, gooey. Invariably I cut myself, stab myself with wires or splinters, and bleed on the already garish wood.

If they are still square and firm when I’m done, I rewire them with foundation or starter strips and store them in a box. The beeswax looks starkly white against the stained and battered frames, but to me it looks like progress.

Recently, I was informed that nobody refurbishes used frames—nobody in their right mind, at least. Frames are cheap and considered disposable like paper diapers or plastic spoons. Hmm. Somehow I missed that part of bee school.

Whatever happened to saving a tree? For some reason, it seems wrong to toss a frame just because it once contained icky, black, or moldy comb. Sure frames are cheap, but shipping is not, and I spend considerable time assembling them. And all my frames contain the extra magic nails that go through the end pieces and hold them together through repeated and vigorous prying.

So, I want to know. Am I the only person who reuses frames? What are the standards by which used frames are judged? I might give it up if I believed that I was the only one doing it, but somehow I think not. Tell me, tell me. Do you reuse your frames?

Rusty
HoneyBeeSuite

Old-frames
Frames in various stages of old.

 

What do you smoke?

Five years ago I wrote a post about what beekeepers burn in their smokers. Earlier today, Bill Reynolds of Minnesota added a comment to that post, recommending adding a handful of green grass to a fast-burning smoker to cool down the smoke and avoid singeing wings. Good point.

When I re-read my post, I was surprised to learn that I was keeping a bucket way back then to store miscellaneous things to burn. I still do that, but my list of burnables has increased to include:

    • popsicle sticks
    • peat pots
    • kabob sticks
    • chopsticks
    • used section-honey frames
    • paper drinking straws
    • wine corks
    • paper vegetable trays
    • old queen cages

    These items are in addition to the ones I mentioned before, such as:

    • baling twine
    • burlap bags
    • cardboard
    • cotton fabric
    • string
    • pine cones
    • wood chips

    Items that other people recommend include:

    • punky stumps
    • straw
    • corn cobs
    • peanut shells
    • egg cartons
    • pony poop
    • dried puffball mushrooms

    Lately I’ve been burning alfalfa pellets designed for horses. These burn cool and smoky and have a nice odor. Mine are about twenty years old and probably free of neonicotinoids, but be wary of plant material that my contain systemic pesticides. The world is becoming complex and full of hidden dangers, so it is risky to take products at face value.

    Also avoid burning anything with paint, plastic coatings, or dyes. One thing I like about using an assortment of materials is that is lessens the chance of an overdose of any single chemical that does happen to sneak in.

    To get the fire started I use old pieces of brood comb and propolis. Whenever I scrape frames or boxes, I have two buckets at my side: one for clean wax that is suitable for crafts, and one for dirty, broody wax that I use for starting fires. Throw a small chuck of wax in the smoker along with the slow-burning fuels and you can get a good fire going in no time. Than take Bill’s advice and slow it down with wet grass.

    So what do you smoke? Have I missed something?

    Rusty
    HoneyBeeSuite

    Smoker-filled-with-alfalfa-pellets
    Alfalfa pellets smell a little like pot. © Rusty Burlew.

Notice Board . . .

In case you missed it: A Song of the Bees

Washboarding bees arockin’ and alickin’

A strange honey bee behavior known as “washboarding” or “rocking” continues to elude an explanation, but it is fun to watch. Worker bees gather in large groups—either inside the hive or out—and rock back and forth while seeming to lick the surface beneath them. The motion has been likened to that of scrubbing clothes on a washboard.

Katie Bohrer and Jeffrey Pettis of the USDA-ARS Bee Research Lab studied washboarding bees and discovered a number of things.

  • The washboarders were all worker bees.
  • They started washboarding at 13 days old.
  • The peak amount of washboarding occurred in workers between 15-25 days old.
  • Washboarding increased from about 8 a.m. to about 2 p.m. and then remained constant to as late as 9 p.m.
  • When given three different surfaces, the washboarding increased as the surface became more textured. Slate produced the most washboarding, followed by unpainted wood, and then glass. The surface-type data, however, did not produce statistically significant results.

Some beekeepers have noticed that washboarding occurs more frequently at the end of a nectar flow and others swear the bees will “clean up” any particles you place on the hive entrance. Other sources claim the behavior “polishes” the surface and thus eliminates rough spots where pathogenic organisms might congregate. Beyond speculation, however, no one has been able to provide a concrete explanation.

For a really cool video of washboarding, click on the link below. If you look carefully, you will notice that the rear four legs of each bee tend to stay in one place, while the front two legs do all the work. This outstanding video was provided by Alexander Wild.

Rusty
HoneyBeeSuite

Five favorite plants for the bee garden

Since this is the season when gardening catalogs flood my mailbox, I can’t help but think about next year’s pollinator garden. My five favorite pollinator plants are all species that attract a wide variety of wildlife. In addition, they all are relatively easy to care for and don’t require a lot of water.

Agastache comes in various forms and colors and is attractive to many bees and butterflies. You can plant an entire garden of just Agastache using purples, oranges, reds, and pinks. These perennials flower over many weeks and are unappealing to deer and rabbits. My favorites include the hybrid “Blue Fortune” which is especially attractive to native bees and “New Mexico Hummingbird Mint” which draws butterflies and bumble bees as well as hummingbirds.

Perovskia, or Russian Sage, is a real pollinator-pleaser. Some of the varieties such as “Blue Spire” become absolutely coated with bees of all descriptions. It has dark blue flowers on spikes that reach about 4 feet high. Deer and rabbits walk right by, while the bees hang on in ecstasy.

Oregano was a surprise to me. I originally planted it for the leaves, but I’ve found that whenever I need a picture of a wild bee I’m sure to find one—or many—hanging out on the oregano plants. Oregano comes in many varieties and the small flowers range from pink to white.

Ceanothus, or California lilac, is a fragrant and colorful evergreen shrub. The first time I ever really noticed one was in front of a public building in Tacoma. I walked by and saw that it was covered—I mean absolutely infested—with honey bees. I cut a twig and took it to a local nursery for identification. These shrubs are very drought tolerant and the flowers are the color of blue that honey bees love. Ceanothus is also freely visited by other species including bumble bees and sweat bees.

Goldenrod is an especially good bee plant because it blooms very late in the year when bees are having a hard time finding forage. The bright yellow flowers attract many species of bee, especially bumble bees. Since goldenrod is tall it makes an excellent plant for the back of a garden or along a wall or fence. This past fall I often saw seven or eight bumble bees on one inflorescence. Goldenrod is another plant that requires little care and little water.

Even if you only have room for a pot or two, you will be surprised at the number of pollinators you can attract with these plants. Other plants with similar characteristics will work as well, including lavender, salvia, penstemon, and catmint.

Rusty
HoneyBeeSuite