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	<title>Honey Bee Suite &#187; hive five</title>
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		<title>Hive five: equipment to improve summer ventilation</title>
		<link>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/hive-five-equipment-to-improve-summer-ventilation/</link>
		<comments>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/hive-five-equipment-to-improve-summer-ventilation/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 19 Aug 2011 15:44:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[beekeeping equipment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hive five]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ventilation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eke]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[follower board]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gabled top]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inner cover]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[screened bottom]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[slatted rack]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=4591</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Summer is coming to a close even though it was nearly a &#8220;non-summer&#8221; here on the Pacific Northwest coast. The corn hasn&#8217;t tasseled; the peaches look like walnuts. Nevertheless, my bees are healthy and I had a good honey harvest&#8211;much better than expected. My honey was capped and my hives are dry inside. What [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Summer is coming to a close even though it was nearly a &#8220;non-summer&#8221; here on the Pacific Northwest coast. The corn hasn&#8217;t tasseled; the peaches look like walnuts. Nevertheless, my bees are healthy and I had a good honey harvest&#8211;much better than expected. My honey was capped and my hives are dry inside. What more could I ask for?</p>
<p>This is just a quick review of ventilation equipment I used this year. Although there are others, these are my favorite five.</p>
<p><strong>Screened bottom board</strong>: In my opinion, this is a must-have piece of equipment. Whether or not it effectively controls mites is anybody&#8217;s guess, but it is great for ventilation. It allows large volumes of air to enter the hive while keeping out mice, large insects, wasps, and other bees.</p>
<p><strong>Screened inner cover</strong>: In order for air to move through the hive, it needs a place to go. The <a title="&quot;Ventilation in a hot &amp; humid climate&quot;" href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=2435" target="_blank">screened inner cover</a> is my favorite choice for reasons similar to the the screened bottom board. It allows plenty of air movement but blocks entry to predators. Before I began using them, the tops of my section boxes frequently became stained with mildew because moisture got trapped beneath the inner cover. Now that problem is completely gone.</p>
<p><strong>Ventilation eke</strong>: I used <a title="&quot;How to use an eke&quot;" href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=3899" target="_blank">ventilation ekes</a> on a few hives where I was short of screened inner covers. These worked almost as well and would have worked even better with more holes. The ones I used had four holes, two on each of the long sides. In the future I will add at least one hole&#8211;and maybe two&#8211;on each of the short sides as well. The ventilation eke is an economical solution because I can staple canvas to the bottom and use them as <a title="&quot;How to make a moisture quilt for a Langstroth hive&quot;" href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=2751" target="_blank">moisture quilts</a> in the winter.</p>
<p><strong>Slatted rack</strong>: The <a title="&quot;How to use a slatted rack&quot;" href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=200" target="_blank">slatted rack</a> improves ventilation because it gives the bees a place to congregate inside the hive. This allows better air flow through the hive because the bees are not filling up the bee space between the frames. On hot days the bees hang in beards from the slats instead of jamming up the front entrance. It is especially effective when used with a screened bottom board.</p>
<p><strong>Follower boards</strong>: Like the slatted rack, <a title="&quot;Follower boards in a Langstroth hive&quot;" href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=719" target="_blank">follower boards</a> give the bees a place to congregate inside the hive. Unlike the slatted rack, the follower boards are at the sides of the hive. In my hives with follower boards, the bees used more vertical space for the brood nest. (Since the bees have only eight instead of ten combs per box, they expand into an upper box sooner.) This tall and slender hive structure is more tree-shaped and seems to provide a &#8220;chimney effect&#8221; that pulls the air through the hive. My hives with follower boards did especially well with honey production.</p>
<p>My next experiment will center on a gabled roof with ventilation ports at each end. I&#8217;m going to start with a prototype from a reader in Maryland who has had excellent success with his design. I will be using it for both summer and winter moisture management and writing about the results. Stay tuned for more about the ventilated gabled roof.</p>
<p>Rusty</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Hive five: must-have beekeeping supplies</title>
		<link>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/hive-five-beekeeping-stuff-the-books-dont-mention/</link>
		<comments>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/hive-five-beekeeping-stuff-the-books-dont-mention/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:58:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[beekeeping equipment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hive five]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=4541</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Here are five things I recommend for the apiary. I have seldom, if ever, seen them mentioned by beekeeping books, clubs, or classes.</p> butterfly net: these are great for catching bees that get in the house or snagging yellow jackets that hang around the hives. I&#8217;ve even caught a queen with one. It doesn&#8217;t [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Here are five things I recommend for the apiary. I have seldom, if ever, seen them mentioned by beekeeping books, clubs, or classes.</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>butterfly net</strong>: these are great for catching bees that get in the house or snagging yellow jackets that hang around the hives. I&#8217;ve even caught a queen with one. It doesn&#8217;t have to be expensive&#8211;the one I have was designed for kids.</li>
<p></p>
<li><strong>ratcheting tie-down</strong>: I secure my hives to the hive stands with these because I live in a place with a lot of over-sized four-footed creatures and the Sasquatch. But even without critters, they are great for tying a hive together before you move it. I once lost control of a wheelbarrow with a large hive in it. (Okay, dumb.) The hive rolled down the hill but the whole thing held together because of the tie-down.</li>
<p></p>
<li><strong>duck-billed hat</strong>: If you have the kind of bee suit with a collapsing hood, you know the hood can collapse against your face giving the bees a free-for-all with your flesh. If you wear a duck-billed cap beneath the hood, it prevents it from collapsing. (Unfortunately, the hat must be worn with the front in the front for this to work.)</li>
<p></p>
<li><strong>propane torch</strong>: forget matches and lighters. If you use a smoker, you need a propane torch to get it started. It will save you hours of frustration.</li>
<p></p>
<li><strong>duct tape</strong>: propolis on a roll. It can be used to hold anything together in an emergency, and it can also be used to block entrances and ventilation holes. It also comes in handy for repairing leaky baggy feeders. And if you insist on wearing your duck-billed hat backwards (see item #3) you can wear duct tape on your chin and nose to block those stings.</li>
</ol>
<p>Rusty</p>
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