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	<title>Honey Bee Suite &#187; feeding bees</title>
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	<link>http://www.honeybeesuite.com</link>
	<description>A Better Way to Bee</description>
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		<title>Sugar slurry: another feeding option</title>
		<link>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/sugar-slurry-feeding/</link>
		<comments>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/sugar-slurry-feeding/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 08 Jan 2012 17:51:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[feeding bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[baggy feeders]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[slurry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sugar syrup]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=5937</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>While many of us are debating the virtues of sugar cakes vs. granulated sugar for winter feeding, others avoid the controversy by using a sugar slurry. The slurry is partway between dry sugar and liquid sugar, at a point where the sugar is wet but doesn’t actually dissolve. Technically, a slurry is a thick [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span class="firstcharacter">W</span>hile many of us are debating the virtues of sugar cakes vs. granulated sugar for winter feeding, others avoid the controversy by using a sugar slurry. The slurry is partway between dry sugar and liquid sugar, at a point where the sugar is wet but doesn’t actually dissolve. Technically, a slurry is a thick suspension of solids in a liquid, but this is very close in appearance and texture to a true slurry. It is generally fed in a baggie feeder and is made as follows.</p>
<p>You take a baggie—say a gallon size—and measure into it 9 parts of sugar and 1 part of water by either weight or volume. You close up the bag and knead the mixture with your hands until it is thoroughly combined. You place the bag on the top bars inside an eke or spacer rim, then you slit the bag with a knife. The moisture content is almost ideal for winter feed. It is not so dry that it needs additional moisture, and it is not so wet that the bees refuse to eat it.</p>
<p>The 9:1 proportion yields a solution with roughly 10% water. This is drier than honey but wetter than fondant. Some beekeepers like to get closer to 12% water, which can be achieved by measuring 8 parts of sugar to 1.1 parts water.</p>
<p>In prior years I have made slurries using granulated sugar, pollen substitute, a few drops of essential oil, and just enough water to make it muddy but not wet—about the consistency of thick brownie batter. I use this instead of pollen patties in the spring because it is less likely to dry out and become hard and unpalatable.</p>
<p>One problem I have noticed with slurries is that sometimes the sugar dries out along the slit in the baggie, forming a crust that seals the bag. This can be remedied by cutting an opening about one ¼-inch wide instead of making just a slit. I use a utility knife to remove a rectangular piece of plastic about 4 inches long and ¼-inch wide diagonally across the center of the bag. This makes a feeding trough for the bees.</p>
<p>Another problem with slurries—as with anything fed in a baggy—is that the bees have to eat from the top of the bag instead of from the bottom. This requires them to break cluster and so is most effective on those days when the temperature in the hive is warm enough to allow them to crawl to the top of the bag. However, baggies have the advantage of being thin enough that the entire contents are readily warmed by the heat rising from the cluster.</p>
<p>Slurry bags are easier to prepare than sugar cakes but more work than dry feeding. I don’t advocate one over the other but, if you are anything like I am, you like options. Sometimes a particular hive responds better to one method than another, and slurries offer you another “try-it” for a problem hive.</p>
<p>Rusty<br />
<a href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com">HoneyBeeSuite</a></p>
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		<title>Ten questions about Mountain Camp feeding</title>
		<link>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/mountain-camp-feeding/</link>
		<comments>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/mountain-camp-feeding/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jan 2012 18:13:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[feeding bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[feeding]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mountain camp]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sugar cakes]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=5922</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p style="margin-bottom: 30px;">The Mountain Camp method of feeding is simple. You take a piece of newspaper and lay it over the top bars, just above the brood nest. Next you add an eke or feeder rim, then you dump dry granulated sugar on top of the paper. Moisture from the bees’ respiration condenses on [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="margin-bottom: 30px;"><span class="firstcharacter">T</span>he Mountain Camp method of feeding is simple. You take a piece of newspaper and lay it over the top bars, just above the brood nest. Next you add an eke or feeder rim, then you dump dry granulated sugar on top of the paper. Moisture from the bees’ respiration condenses on the sugar and makes it palatable for the bees. The Mountain Camp method is used for winter feeding when it is too cold for syrup feeding.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q:</strong> I’ve heard that the bees carry granulated sugar outside the hive and dump it like garbage.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A:</strong> If you add dry sugar after the temperatures have dropped for the winter, the bees won’t fly it outside because it’s too cold. If you are worried about this you can spritz the mound of sugar with water which causes it to form a crust and prevents the bees from picking up granules. Alternatively, you can use superfine sugar which dissolves nearly as soon as the bees touch it.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q:</strong> What is superfine sugar?</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A:</strong> It is the same as regular granulated sugar except the crystals are much smaller so it dissolves quickly. It is also known as “bar sugar” or “baker’s sugar” and is available in 50-pound bags.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q:</strong> Will the bees find dry granulated sugar?</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A:</strong> Yes, they will. If you want, you can add a few drops of essential oil or Honey-B-Healthy to the spritzing water and they will find it even faster.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q:</strong> Isn’t a mound of dry sugar hard to clean up in the spring?</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A:</strong> By spring, any leftover sugar is usually hard as a rock. You can just pick it up in big chunks.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q:</strong> Then what? Throw it away?</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A:</strong> The sugar chunks can be melted down to make spring syrup or they can be stored in a plastic bag for next winter.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q:</strong> So what are the advantages of dry feeding over sugar cakes or candy boards?</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A:</strong> Dry feeding is quick, easy, and involves no cooking. Boiling sugar for hard candy is dangerous and not much fun. Candy boards are bulky and heavy.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q:</strong> Anything else?</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A:</strong> Dry sugar is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the atmosphere. The dry sugar does a great job of absorbing condensation before it can drip down on the bees. This absorbed water also makes the sugar palatable for the bees . . . quite a system.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q:</strong> But I like to add pollen substitute to my sugar cakes in spring. I can’t do that with dry feeding.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A:</strong> Yes you can. Just mix the dry pollen in with the sugar crystals. Use the same ratio of pollen to sugar as you do in candy cakes. It’s actually better because you don’t risk over-heating the pollen substitute.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q:</strong> What are the disadvantages with the Mountain Camp method?</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A:</strong> Personally, I prefer sugar cakes in very cold or very wet weather because I can open the hive about one inch and slide the cakes through the narrow space without letting in the cold and rain. With the Mountain Camp method you have to take the top off the hive so you need a dry and not-very-cold day.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q:</strong> Why is it called “Mountain Camp”?</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A:</strong> It is named after a beekeeper who was keen on dry feeding and wrote about it a lot. His screen name—or so I’m told—was Mountain Camp.</p>
<p>Rusty<br />
<a href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com">HoneyBeeSuite</a></p>
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		<title>Must I feed a new package of bees?</title>
		<link>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/must-i-feed-a-new-package-of-bees/</link>
		<comments>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/must-i-feed-a-new-package-of-bees/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Jan 2012 17:11:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[feeding bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[spring management]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=5903</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>This is a new beekeeper question—and a very good one. If you install your bees on drawn comb with a good supply of honey, you probably don’t need to feed. But if you are installing that package on fresh-from-the-box woodenware, read on.</p> <p>Picture this. You and your many sisters are scooped up by a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span class="firstcharacter">T</span>his is a new beekeeper question—and a very good one. If you install your bees on drawn comb with a good supply of honey, you probably don’t need to feed. But if you are installing that package on fresh-from-the-box woodenware, read on.</p>
<p>Picture this. You and your many sisters are scooped up by a gigantic, flightless, hairy malcontent and put into a wooden crate with a nasty stepmother who is locked in a cage next to you. Her perfume reeks. Your box is shipped halfway across the country in the back of a giant truck with hundreds of other such receptacles. You’re given some watery syrup to keep you alive. You sip this half-heartedly and even share it with the nasty stepmother as you and yours are jostled around in the airless, dark, smelly container. It’s hard to hang on as you sway this way and that. Some of you fall off and die.</p>
<p>Eventually, after changing vehicles a few times, you are sprayed with cold syrup (that’s right, you get sprayed with your dinner) and then dumped in a large two-story box with wooden frames hanging like empty picture frames on parallel clotheslines. What gives?</p>
<p>Over the next few days you become accustomed to your nasty stepmother who no longer seems so nasty. In fact, she’s really not bad at all . . . even her perfume is becoming tolerable. You groom her, feed her, and keep her warm as best you can through the odd screened cage. Then one day the hairy malcontent throws off your roof, lets in the cold air, and releases your stepmother. It’s all so hard to comprehend.</p>
<p>Now pay close attention. The days are balmy, plants are growing, and you are working your asses off trying to build a nursery, bring in supplies, feed the family, take care of the babies, and get ready for the coming winter. But there isn’t enough food for everyone. Some family members are hunting all day long, bringing home everything they can find, but it’s not enough. <em>It’s not sufficient for a family that started out with nothing in the pantry, especially when they first had to build the pantry.</em> Some of your siblings are exhausted from overwork; the weakest ones are falling dead. The family is shrinking. Step mom is pregnant, but there’s not enough food to raise all the kids. Things are looking bleak. What you really need is a food bank.</p>
<p>Then one day the hairy malcontent returns, more malcontent than ever because his high-priced box of creatures is disappearing. He has brought a companion—also hairy but definitely quicker on the uptake—who installs a temporary food bank just above the nursery. You and your siblings give thanks—with this little boost to your diet you will be able to “catch up.” You will be able to get that nursery completed, the furniture installed, the kids fed . . . and maybe convince step mom to raise some sons. And if you’re lucky, you will be able to fill the pantry before winter.</p>
<p>So to all you first-time beekeepers out there, the short answer is “yes”—feed that new package of bees. You will be glad you did.</p>
<p>Rusty<br />
<a href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com">HoneyBeeSuite.com</a></p>
<div id="attachment_5907" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/3535216188_2b97b1795b.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-5907" title="3535216188_2b97b1795b" src="http://www.honeybeesuite.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/3535216188_2b97b1795b.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Creatures in a box. This could be you! Flickr photo by Joe DeLuca.</p></div>
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		<title>Winter feed Q &amp; A: liquid vs solid sugar</title>
		<link>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/winter-feed-q-a-liquid-vs-solid-sugar/</link>
		<comments>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/winter-feed-q-a-liquid-vs-solid-sugar/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Dec 2011 19:23:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[feeding bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[candy boards]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sugar syrup]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=5817</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>My recent posts on heat transfer in liquid and solid feeds have generated a host of good questions. Since many of the questions are similar, I&#8217;ve attempted to answer them in the following Q &#38; A.</p> <p>Q: So what should I feed my bees, sugar syrup, fondant, or hard candy?</p> <p>A: Both liquid feed [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My recent posts on heat transfer in liquid and solid feeds have generated a host of good questions. Since many of the questions are similar, I&#8217;ve attempted to answer them in the following Q &amp; A.</p>
<p><strong>Q:</strong> So what should I feed my bees, sugar syrup, fondant, or hard candy?</p>
<p><strong>A:</strong> Both liquid feed and solid feed have their place. Ideally, a solution of 2:1 syrup can be fed in the fall until the syrup itself reaches about 50°F (10°C). In colder temperatures solid feed (either fondant or hard candy) should be fed.</p>
<p><strong>Q:</strong> I’ve heard that evaporating the syrup is particularly difficult for the bees in cold weather and this is why it shouldn’t be fed in winter. What do you think?</p>
<p><strong>A:</strong> There are really two questions here.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q1</strong>: Is it difficult for bees to evaporate water from syrup in winter?</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A1</strong>: Absolutely. Cold air holds less moisture than warm air, so in a cold hive no amount of fanning will evaporate the water from cold syrup. Think of dew. Dew forms on objects because the cold air of evening cannot hold all the moisture that warmer daytime can hold. As the temperature drops, the water vapor literally falls out of the air and condenses on things. If winter air cannot hold the moisture from the syrup, it will not evaporate no matter how hard the bees work.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Q2</strong>: Is this why you shouldn’t feed syrup in winter?</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>A2</strong>: Most winter feed is <strong>not</strong> given to bees in the hopes they will store it, it is given to bees to keep them from starving should they run out of honey. A feeder full of cold syrup in your hive will not hurt your bees, but it won’t help them either. It just sits there because it is too cold for the bees to drink. And since they won’t drink it, it is not an emergency food source.</p>
<p><strong>Q</strong>: Don’t bees need some water in order to eat hard candy and fondant?</p>
<p><strong>A</strong>: Yes, a source of moisture is needed, but there is plenty of moisture in the hive for this. The moisture from bee respiration condenses on cool surfaces just like the dew. Since the fondant or candy is above the bees, the moisture from their breath lands on it and condenses. Unless you live in the desert, damp air coming in from outside through the entrance may condense on the solid sugar as well. These sources provide plenty of water for the bees to consume solid sugar.</p>
<p><strong>Q</strong>: Won’t bees leave the hive in dangerously cold temperatures in order to find water to dilute the fondant?</p>
<p><strong>A</strong>: No. Bees don’t commit suicide. At any rate, the colder the air, the less water it will hold—and the more bee respiration will condense on the sugar.</p>
<p><strong>Q</strong>: I’m confused. I thought 2:1 syrup was fed to bees in order to build up reserves for winter.</p>
<p><strong>A</strong>: It is. But, as I mentioned above, the <em>purpose</em> of <strong>fall</strong> feed and the <em>purpose</em> of <strong>winter</strong> feed are different. A hearty feeding of 2:1 syrup in the fall <em>while temperatures are still warm enough to evaporate it</em> will be stored by the bees and used to increase their winter food supply. On the other hand, the purpose of winter feed is to keep bees that are low on stores from starving—they are not going to store their winter feed, they’re going to eat it.</p>
<p><strong>Q</strong>: Should all bees be fed sugar?</p>
<p><strong>A</strong>: No. Bees should eat honey. Sugar is fed when a colony hasn’t collected sufficient stores to make it until spring, when the beekeeper has over-harvested, or when the beekeeper needs to administer certain medicines, such as Fumagilin for <em>Nosema</em> diseases.</p>
<p><strong>Q</strong>: So you’re not advocating solid sugar over liquid sugar?</p>
<p><strong>A</strong>: I’m not advocating anything. I’m just trying to explain why the bees treat different feeds differently at different temperatures. Very specific physical properties govern how the world works. The more you know of these, the easier it is to make good management decisions.</p>
<p>Rusty</p>
<p><a href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com">HoneyBeeSuite.com</a></p>
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		<title>Physics for beekeepers: Why bees can eat solid sugar in winter</title>
		<link>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/bees-can-eat-solid-sugar-in-winter/</link>
		<comments>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/bees-can-eat-solid-sugar-in-winter/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Dec 2011 17:25:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[feeding bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[physics for beekeepers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sugar cakes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sugar syrup]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=5808</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>The following question was written in response to my post “Heat transfer in sugar syrup.” It’s a great question but a complex subject. The following is a vastly simplified explanation, but I hope it begins to explain why the bees can eat cold sugar but not cold syrup. The comment follows:</p> <p>The alternative [to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span class="firstcharacter">T</span>he following question was written in response to my post “<a title="Physics for beekeepers: Heat transfer in sugar syrup&quot;" href="http://wp.me/pLmcw-1vx">Heat transfer in sugar syrup</a>.” It’s a great question but a complex subject. The following is a vastly simplified explanation, but I hope it begins to explain why the bees can eat cold sugar but not cold syrup. The comment follows:</p>
<blockquote><p>The alternative [to sugar syrup], fondant, relies on the bee liquidizing the sugar with saliva, so presumably the substance is then at the correct temperature automatically—is that correct?</p></blockquote>
<p>The answer lies in the different ways heat moves through liquid sugar and solid sugar. In fluids (both liquids and gases) <strong>convection</strong> plays a large part in heat transfer. Convection is the collective movement of molecules within a fluid. As molecules of fluid become warmer, they jiggle more, and the substance becomes less dense. The less dense portions rise to the top and the colder (denser) portions fall to the bottom. All this rising and falling of molecules causes the fluid to mix.</p>
<p>The syrup in your bee feeder receives warmth from the sun (the warmed atmosphere) and warmth from the bee bodies—both of which cause convective heat currents in the syrup. But since there is usually little heat and a lot of syrup, the heating process is slow. More convective currents will occur in a pail feeder than in a flat baggy feeder simply because there is more room for rising and falling of the molecules in a deep container than a shallow one. At night when the air temperature dips, any excess warmth will leave through the top of the feeders. More heat will be lost through a large surface area (baggy feeder) than a small surface area (pail feeder.)</p>
<p>Here’s a great irony about syrup feeders: Since the bees (a heat source) are directly beneath the feeders, the syrup may be warmer at the bottom of a shallow baggy feeder than at the top (because of little mixing and lots of heat loss) but the bees have to drink it from the top. Conversely, the syrup may be warmer at the top of a pail feeder than at the bottom (because of lots of mixing and little heat loss) but the bees have to drink it from the bottom.</p>
<p>Heat transfer is totally different in your fondant, sugar cakes, or candy boards which are solids. Instead of the warm molecules moving throughout the substance, the molecules stay fixed in one position and just the heat moves from molecule to molecule in a process called <strong>conduction</strong>.</p>
<p>Although it would take a long time for bee heat to warm the entire sugar cake, an interesting thing happens—since the material doesn’t mix, the surface of the sugar cake, especially that surface nearest the bees, becomes quite warm . . . warm enough to eat!</p>
<p>Mind you, it’s only the thin surface layer that is very warm, but the bees eat slowly and they eat from the surface. The rate of eating is slow enough, in fact, that the newly exposed surfaces have time to warm up before the bees eat them. Whereas in-hive convection warms your entire container of syrup slightly, in-hive conduction warms the surface layer of solid sugar substantially. What a system.</p>
<p>Rusty</p>
<p><a href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com">HoneyBeeSuite.com</a></p>
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		<title>Physics for beekeepers: heat transfer in sugar syrup</title>
		<link>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/physics-for-beekeepers-heat-transfer-in-sugar-syrup/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Dec 2011 19:13:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[feeding bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[physics for beekeepers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[feeders]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sugar syrup]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[<p>Honey bees can elevate their thoracic (core) temperature by exercising their muscles and generating heat. However, below an air temperature of about 57-59°F (14-15°C) an individual bee can soon become immobile if she doesn’t work hard to stay warm. Surely you’ve seen one on a cold landing board—alive but barely able to take a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span class="firstcharacter">H</span>oney bees can elevate their thoracic (core) temperature by exercising their muscles and generating heat. However, below an air temperature of about 57-59°F (14-15°C) an individual bee can soon become immobile if she doesn’t work hard to stay warm. Surely you’ve seen one on a cold landing board—alive but barely able to take a step. This occurs because as her surroundings get colder it becomes more difficult for a lone bee to maintain a temperature that allows her to function. According to Peter G. Kevan in <em>Bees, Biology and Management</em>, a worker bee’s minimum rate of metabolism occurs at about 50°F (10°C).</p>
<p>So a feeder of syrup at or below 50°F—no matter how badly it’s needed—is useless to bees. If they drink it, it will lower their thoracic temperature to a level where they cannot move—cannot even crawl back to the cluster. Since drinking it may mean death, they leave it alone.</p>
<p>But, you argue, the day was sunny and the thermometer on your porch read 65°F (18°C) for over two hours! But they still didn’t drink it. Why not?</p>
<p>The answer to this question lies in the ability of heat to transfer between different substances. Remember, it is the temperature of the syrup, not the air, which is important. In your hive, the air may warm up quickly, but the sugar syrup stays cold. A number of factors affect how fast the heat will move from the air to the syrup, but density is the major one—sugar syrup is denser than air so it takes longer to heat up.</p>
<p>Imagine the process in reverse. Let’s say that in your freezer you have a loaf of bread and a package of ground meat which are roughly the same size. You take them out of the freezer and place them on your kitchen counter. Which one thaws quicker? No contest, the bread will thaw hours before the ground meat. If you let them come to room temperature and then return them to the freezer, the bread will freeze in no time compared with the meat. The difference in the freeze and thaw rates is largely due to the difference in density. Density is defined as mass divided by volume (If it helps, think weight divided by volume.)</p>
<p>Once you start having consistently cold nights—nights in the 40’s or lower—it’s a fairly safe bet that your bees are done taking syrup for the winter. Even on a very warm afternoon, it will take many hours to bring that syrup up into the 50s. Sure, some people will claim that their bees drink later into the winter than others. This occurs because the density of syrup is not the only factor to consider.</p>
<p>For example, if your syrup dispenser is flat and shallow (like a baggy feeder) it will change temperature more quickly than one that is cylindrical (like a pail feeder.) The material the container is made from also makes a difference. Plastic transfers heat at a different rate than metal which transfers heat at a different rate than glass. And like the bread and meat, these differences work in either direction. A flat baggy feeder may get cold faster than a cylindrical pail feeder, but it will warm up faster as well.</p>
<p>About the only way to make your bees drink syrup in cold weather is to heat it. Some folks do this in order to get the bees to finish a batch of syrup, but it is time consuming and the influx of cold air when opening the hive may harm the bees. Far better to start feeding early in the fall and be done before the cold weather sets in for good.</p>
<p>Rusty</p>
<p><a href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com">HoneyBeeSuite.com</a></p>
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		<title>Is organic sugar better for bees?</title>
		<link>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/is-organic-sugar-better-for-bees/</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Nov 2011 17:55:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[feeding bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dysentery]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sugar syrup]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[<p>A number of beekeepers have said they feed their bees organic sugar (usually organic evaporated cane juice) and they firmly believe they are doing the best possible thing for their bees. Other folks are horrified at the idea because these products are not pure white and, therefore, contain impurities that may cause honey bee [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span class="firstcharacter">A</span> number of beekeepers have said they feed their bees organic sugar (usually organic evaporated cane juice) and they firmly believe they are doing the best possible thing for their bees. Other folks are horrified at the idea because these products are not pure white and, therefore, contain impurities that may cause honey bee dysentery. So which side is right?</p>
<p>The odd thing about refined white sugar it that it is actually very good for bees. Bees that are forced to stay inside the hive for long periods risk getting honey bee dysentery—the more solids in their feed, the worse the problem. Dark honeys, which contain high amounts of vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients, are harder on the bees than light colored honeys . . . and brown sugar, which also contains many solids, is nearly a death sentence.</p>
<p>One of the telling numbers is “total ash”—ash being the stuff left over after you burn away a sample. A typical sample of honey may contain about 0.17% ash, whereas refined table sugar contains only about 0.07% ash. So that’s roughly 2.5 times as much ash in the honey as in the sugar. But a typical sample of evaporated cane juice may run as high as 2.15% ash, depending on the manufacturer. This is about 12.5 times as much ash as in a typical sample of honey—scary because that ash can lead directly to honey bee dysentery.</p>
<p>So while feeding bees any sugar is “unnatural,” bees can actually survive long periods of confinement eating nothing but refined white sugar and come out healthy in the spring. The same may not be true of evaporated cane juice&#8211;organic or not.</p>
<p>My guess, based on the way the products are manufactured, it that organic sugar is better for bees than brown sugar but not as good as standard refined white sugar.</p>
<ul>
<li>Brown sugar is bad for bees because it is made by taking refined white sugar and adding molasses back into it—and it’s the molasses part that contains all the solids. The ash content of brown sugar will vary depending on how much molasses is added, but molasses runs from 5 to 9% ash. While not all brown sugar is made this way, the bulk of it is. In any case, dark sugar is like dark honey—the darker the product, the higher the solids.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Much of the tan color left in organic sugar is the result of not using bleach—which is a good thing. However, more nutrients remain in evaporated cane juice than remain in refined white sugar and some of these nutrients can definitely contribute to honey bee dysentery. Remember that, unlike human dysentery, honey bee dysentery is not caused by a pathogen, rather it is caused by improper diet and lack of &#8220;facilities.&#8221;</li>
</ul>
<p>Other issues surround organic sugar, of course. I use it in my kitchen because it is raised from non-GMO plants without pesticides . . . and because it’s not bleached. Since I don’t cook with much sugar, the price premium is a minor issue. But I would never feed it to bees. Not only do I not want to pay the exorbitant price, but it is not nearly as good for them as plain old refined white sugar.</p>
<p>Rusty</p>
<p><a href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com">HoneyBeeSuite.com</a></p>
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		<title>Why feed sugar syrup at all?</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 25 Oct 2011 17:09:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[feeding bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sugar syrup]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[<p>The first thing I do in the morning is check my HBS e-mail for questions and comments. I love answering and often spend considerable time researching the details. But today my box was filled with “unanswerable” questions—questions (five of them!) where the answer depends on philosophy.</p> <p>One of these read: “Why are we feeding [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span class="firstcharacter">T</span>he first thing I do in the morning is check my HBS e-mail for questions and comments. I love answering and often spend considerable time researching the details. But today my box was filled with “unanswerable” questions—questions (five of them!) where the answer depends on philosophy.</p>
<p>One of these read: “Why are we feeding bees at all? I have such a hard time hearing about this practice of interfering with the bees&#8217; food source.”</p>
<p>I&#8217;m at a crossroads with this question. On one hand, I’m a proponent of organic agriculture and natural beekeeping. I have spent much of my academic life studying the adverse effects of pesticides, GMOs, and other “big ag” practices that are damaging life on earth. On the other hand, during my undergraduate study of agronomic crops, I developed a real empathy for those who must raise crops to feed the populous and make a living in the process. It’s tough stuff.</p>
<p>Honey bees are one of many species that have taken a hit because of modern agricultural practices. Anyone who forgets that bees are livestock—farm animals, if you will—is missing the big picture. Honey bees are needed for our system of industrial agriculture whether we like it or not. Personally, I don’t like the system, but my opinion has no bearing on its existence.</p>
<p>Of course, commercial beekeepers are not the only ones who feed syrup to bees. A beekeeper with one or a dozen hives may do it, and certainly those with thousands of hives do it. Let’s first look at the reasons without moral judgment:</p>
<ul>
<li>A beekeeper may believe his hives are not well-stocked enough with honey to make it through the winter. This may be due to bad weather, robbing, predation, or over-harvesting. In any case, the beekeeper is trying to save his bees from starvation.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>A beekeeper may have a pollination contract to fulfill and he needs a fast build up in the spring,. So he feeds syrup, perhaps laced with supplemental pollen or amino acids.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>A beekeeper may have problems with a disease such as Nosema so he decides to treat his hives. Syrup is the only way to administer the medicine.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>A beekeeper may be starting new colonies from splits or nucs. There is a good chance they won’t survive the first year unless they have a syrup supplement.</li>
</ul>
<p>Now let’s look at the right-and-wrong of it. Many people think it is wrong to over-harvest the honey and feed the bees syrup instead. I agree with this, but I can understand the other side of the coin. If you are a commercial honey producer, which is “more” right: over-harvesting that valuable honey crop or making your kids go without medical care? Surely, that’s the extreme, the exception, but those situations can and do exist.</p>
<p>If you are an orchardist, are you going to run the risk of losing your crop because it&#8217;s wrong to feed syrup to the bees? If you are a commercial beekeeper are you going to default on a pollination contract because your bees didn’t build up fast enough? Growers and commercial beekeepers are business people, and they need to make competent business decisions.</p>
<p>As I stated in my earliest posts, I find the rift between commercial and hobby beekeepers disturbing. As hobbyists, we have lots of freedom. We can molly-coddle our bees, we can treat them like house pets and sing them to sleep&#8211;and it doesn’t cut into our bottom line, our personal finances, tomorrow’s meals. Meanwhile the commercial beekeeper is keeping a large segment of the agricultural industry rolling. He’s helping to put food on our tables, assuring us a steady supply of fresh produce and a healthful, varied diet. While we dine on this feast we criticize him for the sugar syrup thing. It hardly seems fair.</p>
<p>For me, the biggest question is one of moral responsibility. Do you find it more desirable to let your bees starve to death than feed them syrup? If you’ve had a hot, dry summer with little forage (as occurred in much of the U.S. this year) do you say, “Tough luck bees, you get to die a slow and painful death because it’s wrong for me to feed sugar syrup&#8221;? I find this philosophy repugnant. I believe that once you take an animal into your care you have a <a title="&quot;Let the bees be bees&quot; Really?" href="http://wp.me/pLmcw-1hD">responsibility</a> to give it the best life you can. Starving to death is not a good life.</p>
<p>One more point about the question: The writer referred to sugar syrup feeding as &#8220;interfering with the bees&#8217; food source.&#8221; I disagree with that assessment completely. What interferes with the bees&#8217; food source is not sugar syrup, but urbanization, industrialization, human population, agriculture, roads and freeways, pesticides, pollution, invasive species, global warming, deforestation, mountain top removal, and on and on. Without those things, there would be plenty of forage&#8211;and syrup would be a non-issue.</p>
<p>No doubt, honey is the single best food for honey bees and that is what they should be given whenever possible. But it’s not always possible in the environment we&#8217;ve created, and it’s not always the best answer given other circumstances. That old saying about walking a mile in another man’s moccasins before passing judgment applies. Nearly all beekeepers would love to avoid syrup, but sometimes they can&#8217;t. Who am I to judge?</p>
<p>Rusty</p>
<p><a href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com">HoneyBeeSuite.com</a></p>
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		<title>Why won’t my bees cap their syrup?</title>
		<link>http://www.honeybeesuite.com/why-won%e2%80%99t-my-bees-cap-their-syrup/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Oct 2011 21:02:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[feeding bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cappings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sugar syrup]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=5496</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>The syrup we feed bees in the fall is generally in the ratio of 2 parts sugar to 1 part water, either by weight or volume. That means the mixture is about 66% sugar and 34% water. But before the bees cap syrup (or honey) they dry it to roughly 17-18% water. Using round [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span class="firstcharacter">T</span>he syrup we feed bees in the fall is generally in the ratio of 2 parts sugar to 1 part water, <a title="&quot;Sugar syrup measurement: weight or volume?&quot;" href="http://wp.me/pLmcw-t9">either by weight or volume</a>. That means the mixture is about 66% sugar and 34% water. But before the bees cap syrup (or honey) they dry it to roughly 17-18% water. Using round numbers, let’s call that 20%.</p>
<p>Now a solution of 80% sugar to 20% water is in the ratio of 4 to 1. So if you were making syrup this thick, you would have to put twice as much sugar into the water as you do for 2 to 1 syrup. That is really hard to do.</p>
<p>And remember we rounded up to 20%. If we wanted 18% moisture we would need 4.56 parts sugar to 1 part water, or 4.56 pounds of sugar to 1 pound of water. The 17% number requires 4.88 pounds of sugar to 1 pound of water—dangerously close to 5:1. As you can see, capped syrup (or honey) has very little water in it.</p>
<p>So the bees take their 2:1 syrup, store it in cells, and fan like crazy to drive off the extra water, of which there is a lot. Trouble is, as the ambient temperature gets colder in the fall, it becomes harder and harder to drive the water from the syrup. Not only is the liquid colder, but the cold air surrounding it can’t hold as much moisture as the warm air of summer. Add to that there are fewer bees doing the work. Everything slows down and capping takes <em>forever</em> if it happens at all.</p>
<p>Eventually, when the syrup itself reaches about 50° F (10° C), the bees give up and the syrup sits unattended in the feeder. You simply cannot feed liquid syrup to bees once the temperature of the syrup dips too low, which is why beekeepers use candy boards, fondant, or dry sugar for colonies that need a feed supplement in winter.</p>
<p>Rusty</p>
<p><a href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com">HoneyBeeSuite.com</a></p>
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		<title>Turning syrup into honey?</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Oct 2011 15:56:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rusty</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[feeding bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[feeding]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[honey]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sugar syrup]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.honeybeesuite.com/?p=5490</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>The question usually goes something like this: “How long does it take for the bees to turn syrup into honey?”</p> <p>The answer is “they can’t.” Bees can never turn sugar syrup into honey. Harry Potter himself couldn&#8217;t do it. Syrup is made from granulated sugar (sucrose) dissolved in water. After the bees get done [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span class="firstcharacter">T</span>he question usually goes something like this: “How long does it take for the bees to turn syrup into honey?”</p>
<p>The answer is “they can’t.” Bees can never turn sugar syrup into honey. Harry Potter himself couldn&#8217;t do it. Syrup is made from granulated sugar (sucrose) dissolved in water. After the bees get done finagling with it, enzyming it, fanning it, and storing it you still have sugar in water—nothing more.</p>
<p>The idea that bees can change syrup into honey comes from the mistaken belief that enzymes in the bee’s honey stomach are responsible for creating honey. But it’s the chemical compounds in nectar—an astounding array of different substances—that gives honey its flavor and aroma.</p>
<p>In spite of its lack of substance, bees treat sugar syrup as if it were honey. They take it into their honey stomachs, pass it around, store it in cells, and dry it to the proper moisture level. This is why honey producers never feed syrup while honey supers are in place. If syrup is readily available to bees, the real honey soon becomes contaminated with the syrup.</p>
<p>I knew a beekeeper who fed sugar syrup to her bees all spring and summer with honey supers in place and then marketed her product as “pure honey.” When I asked her about it, she explained to me that the bees ate the sugar syrup which gave them lots of energy to collect nectar and make honey. She saw nothing wrong with the practice because she thought the bees treated the substances differently. No amount of explanation on my part made an impression on her and, as far as I know, she still does it . . . and teaches a beekeeping class as well.</p>
<p>The important point here is that although syrup cannot be made into honey, bees treat syrup no differently than nectar. If we interfere with the bees’ life processes (by feeding sugar syrup) we must understand the consequences of our actions and take steps to avoid problems.</p>
<p>Rusty</p>
<p><a href="http://www.honeybeesuite.com">HoneyBeeSuite.com</a></p>
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