Your very first hive inspection can be scary. Here are a few tips to make easier.
To begin:
- Know why you are opening the hive before you do it. It helps to know exactly what you are looking for.
- Pick a warm and sunny day when most of the foragers are out in the field. The hive will be easier to inspect when it is less populated.
- Stand behind the hive so you are not blocking the entrance.
- Calm the bees by using smoke or a gentle spray of sugar syrup, whichever is your preference.
- If you are using smoke, puff some into the entrance and wait a few moments for the bees to begin eating honey.
- Remove the lid and place it upside down on the ground to use as a place to stack brood boxes and/or supers.
- You may puff smoke or spray sugar syrup under the inner cover if you wish. Wait a few more moments.
- Remove the inner cover.
- If you have honey supers or more than one brood box, stack everything on the inverted lid except the bottom brood box.
Moving the frames:
- Lift out one of the two end frames, inspect it, and then set it aside in a safe place.
- One-by-one, slide a frame into the empty spot, lift it up and inspect both sides, then replace it in the same orientation as before. Sliding each frame away from the others before lifting reduces the chance of rolling the queen between two frames.
- Hold the frame over the brood box so if the queen falls off, she will fall back in the box.
- Each time you replace a frame, slide it toward the side where you removed the first frame. By the end of your inspection the empty slot will be on the other side of the box.
- When you are finished, slide the frames back to their original position and replace the first frame.
- If you have a second brood box to inspect, place it on top of the first and then do your inspection.
What you are looking for depends on your purpose. But for a general inspection, you may be looking for:
- Sealed brood in a compact pattern with few empty cells: a solid pattern of brood generally indicates a good queen.
- Eggs—the presence of eggs means the queen was present within the last three days.
- New white comb—a sign of a honey flow.
- Supersedure cells—queen cells on the surface of the comb may indicate the queen is failing.
- Swarm cells—queen cells on the perimeter of the comb may mean the colony is preparing to swarm.
- Nectar or honey in the cells.
- Pollen stored in an arc next to the brood nest.
- The presence of drone brood.
- Signs of disease.
Special notes:
- If you have a top-bar hive or foundationless frames, do not hold them sideways (parallel to the ground) because the weight of the combs may cause them to break from the frame.
- Keep your hive inspections as short as possible—an inspection is very disrupting of the hive. On the other hand, keep your movements slow and deliberate. Do not rush.
- Jot down any notes to yourself before going into the next hive. It can be difficult to remember what you saw and where.
Rusty



I have 4 hives with Africanized bees here in Belize.
I’m getting trained by various people.
Is it important to destroy the drones?
Should you arrange the frames in the brood boxes into a certain order?
Should you always destroy the peanuts.
Last week I had 2 queen cells on the surfaces in one hive, is that a sure sign of trouble?
I’ll appreciate you advice.
Thom
Thom,
I have very little knowledge about keeping Africanized bees. However, I know that, unlike European Honey bees, Africanized colonies produce huge numbers of drones–and they just keep producing more and more. Biologists say prolific drone production is the main reason Africanized bees have spread into new areas so fast. Those who keep Africanized bees often kill the drones in order to keep the bees from spreading even further. However, I would handle the drones the way your local beekeepers recommend.
I always arrange the frames the way I found them. I would not split the brood nest with new frames or break apart the nest in any way.
Beekeepers destroy the peanuts to prevent swarming. Africanized bees swarm much more frequently then European honey bees, so again, cutting peanuts is probably a way of controlling the spread of Africanized colonies. However, Africanized bees swarm frequently and without much provocation, so I don’t imagine cutting peanuts is particularly effective. Again, I would go with local recommendations.
Queen cells on the surface may mean the colony is going to supersede (replace) its queen. Some bees build supersedure cells “just in case” they need them, so it is not a sure sign of supersedure if you see a few queen cells now and then.
I imagine Africanized bees are common in Belize–much more common than even the southern U.S. I think your best bet is to get information from local beekeepers who routinely work with these strains. But thanks for writing. Let me know how you do with these critters–I’m interested in knowing more.