How to tame a baggie feeder
Although more art than science is required to use baggie feeders, they are still my favorite bee “service” because they drown so few bees and because I can use them in any type of hive, including a top-bar. Since many beginners will be using them this spring, I assembled a list of dos and don’ts that may help. Mostly it takes practice.
- The very best zip-top bags are made from freezer-weight plastic. The worst (in my experience) are the double layer bags, which are made from two thin layers instead of one thick layer of plastic.
- A ten-frame Langstroth hive can accommodate two one-gallon zip-top bags. If you are using a different size hive or a different size bag, lay some bags on your top bars to see what pattern will work for you. You don’t want to figure this out with full bags of syrup.
- Make sure the spacer rim or shallow super you are using to hold the feeder is deeper than a filled bag. To test, just fill a baggie with water and lay it inside the rim. There must be bee space between the top of the bag and the inner cover or lid.
- If you are going to label the bags with contents or date, write with a felt-tip pen while the bags are still empty.
- To fill the bags easily, stand them in a high-sided bowl, open the bag as wide as possible, then pour in the cooled syrup.
- Fill each bag only one-half to two-thirds full. If they are totally full, all the syrup will leak out when you slit the bag.
- Squeeze the air out of the bag and then zip it shut all the way to the ends.
- Lay the bag on a flat surface (such as a table) for a few minutes, then check for leaks.
- If the zip top is leaking at the ends, fold a piece of duct tape over the zipper and press tightly all around. This stops the leak and holds the bag together.
- Don’t stack the filled bags. If you are going to carry them in a bucket to the hives, put them in the bucket side by side. Too much weight on top can cause them to burst open. If the bucket is rough on the inside, line it with a towel.
- Before you head out to the bee yard make sure you have a sharp knife or box cutter, some extra baggies, and a roll of duct tape.
- Make sure the tops of your frames or top-bars are smooth. If you used nails to assemble wedged top-bars, make sure there are no nail-tips poking through the wood. These will rip your bag instantly. In hives where the top bars seem rough or splintery, you can cut thick brown paper the size of the baggies and lay these down first. (Cut paper in advance if you think you will need it.)
- Hold a baggie by the top and place the bottom near the side of the feeder rim. Very slowly lower the baggie down over the bees. As the syrup flattens out into the bag, the bees will get out of the way. This is not as hard as it sounds and it’s kind of fun to watch the bees move away from the bag. Just go slowly.
- Now, cut the slits. I usually cut the first one diagonally in the middle of the bag and about four inches long. Don’t slit the bag where it starts to curve downward–just do it on top. Make two more slits parallel to the first and about an inch away. These should be about an inch shorter. (Your knife needs to be really sharp. These plastic bags are really delicate until you try to slit them with a knife, at which point they become indestructible.)
- Be very careful not to insert your knife too deep and cut the bottom layer of plastic. (This is more apt to happen if your knife is not sharp and you end up pushing down on the plastic.)
- If you accidentally nick a bag you can patch it with a piece of duct tape. If things really go awry you can pour what’s left of the feed into a new bag.
- If you absolutely must move a slit bag that still contains syrup, you can weave your hive tool though the slits in the plastic and lift the bag straight up.
- When it’s time to feed more syrup, you can refill the bag by lifting the top part with your hive tool and pouring in more syrup. Or you can leave the old bag in place and put a new one on top of it. (This takes care of those sharp places.)
- If the bees don’t drink the syrup, make sure the bag is slit. If it is, take a small dropper and add a couple drops of essential oil (anise, peppermint, tea tree, etc) or a little Honey-B-Healthy. The syrup will be gone in no time.
Rusty
HoneyBeeSuite







Comments
Would it still work if you used an empty medium super instead of a 3 inch spacer?
Sure, any size spacer or super that is big enough for the baggie feeder will work. The only reason I prefer spacers is that they are easier to carry around and easier to store–but the bees don’t care.
I took some bags out to a yard that is about 20 miles away. I forgot my razor knife. No one around, no where to buy one, but I found a toothpick. I poked several holes in the top, being very careful not to poke too deep. It worked like a charm. Now, that’s all I use.
Doug,
I like that idea! Why did I never think of it? I’m going to try it next time instead of the slits.
greatly appreciate the detailed do’s /don’ts on baggie feeding – Thank you!
Thanks for the info.
Any reason not to use the inside cover and lay the baggie on that rather than across the top of the frames? I have been feeding small baggies in there on a plate, inside a small super box. But they go so quickly that I am wondering whether I can use a couple of gallon bags up in there? I too have been poking the baggies, with wooden skewers, but toothpicks, that’d be better.
Jayne,
I place them on the top-bars to keep the syrup warmer in cold weather. Plus, the bees don’t have to traverse empty space to get to them–the top of the cluster can just sort of flow over the bag and get to the feed.
But my concerns are based on cold-weather feeding. In the spring and summer it shouldn’t make any difference at all if you place the bags on an inner cover.
I used this baggie feeding method. I like it but when I go to take out the empty bag and put out a new one there are always one or two bees, dead, in the bag. Anyone else notice this?
Sarah,
To have one or two dead bees in any liquid feeding system is nothing short of amazing. I’ve seen internal feeders with hundred–or perhaps thousands–of dead bees floating around. Consider yourself a bee-feeding wizard and let it go at that.
Glad to know I’m not the only one who kills bees when I take it into my head that they need my help to live.
Rusty (and Doug, too),
Thank you!
Back story: our region started nectar dearth early, thanks to 100+-degree June heat + no rain, that burned up the best clover flush in 5 years.
My friends’ 7 hives were into their super stores, but my little shook split had used up about all the honey in the corners of 7 frames of brood, and most of 1 & 9. And still hatching brood.
Baggie feeders, in an old comb shallow for a feeder rim, and Doug’s toothpick idea with a bamboo skewer – worked like a charm! NO drowned bees, and they emptied 2 gallon bags flat in 2 days. And, when I refilled the bags, they’d begun drawing comb in their expansion medium, which they hadn’t touched in a month.
Follow-up: grateful to say we have been blessed with 2″ rain in 2 weeks. The clover is coming back, and the Sericea lespedeza is budding, so we should survive till the goldenrod in late August. We’re better off than many folks (human and melliferan) and hope that beekeepers in less fortunate regions make use of this method. Thanks again, and this will be my feed method of choice in any syrup weather. Best to everyone coping with weather extremes!
Nan