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Honey Bee Suite is dedicated to honey bees, beekeeping, wild bees, other pollinators, and pollination ecology. It is designed to be informative and fun, but also to remind readers that pollinators throughout the world are endangered. Although they may seem small and insignificant, pollinators are vital to anyone who eats.

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Plants that Attract Pollinators

Popular Garden Plants:

Basil (Ocimum)
Bee balm (Monardia)
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
Borage (Borago)
Caltrop (Kallstroemia)
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster)
English Lavendar (Lavandula)
Escallonia (Escallonia)
Globe thistle (Echinops)
Hyssop (Hyssopus)
Licorice Mint (Agastache)
Marjoram (Origanum)
Mexican sunflower (Tithonia)
Milkweed (Asclepias)
Rocky Mountain Bee Plant (Cleome)
Rosemary (Rosmarinus)
Russian Sage (Perovskia)
Sage (Salvia)
Wallflower (Erysimum)
Wild lilac (Ceanothus)
Zinnia (Zinnia)

Northwest Native Plants:

Aster (Aster)
California poppy (Eschscholzia)
Currant (Ribes)
Elder (Sambucus)
Fireweed (Epilobium)
Goldenrod (Solidago)
Joe-pye weed (Eupatorium)
Larkspur (Delphinium)
Lupine (Lupinus)
Madrone (Arbutus)
Mint (Mentha)
Oregon grape (Berberis)
Penstemon (Penstemon)
Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus)
Rhododendron (Rhododendron)
Saskatoon (Amalanchier)
Scorpion-weed (Phacelia)
Snowberry (Symphoricarpos)
Stonecrop (Sedum)
Sunflower (Helianthus)
Wild buckwheat (Eriogonum)
Willow (Salix)
Yarrow (Achillea)

How to use a baggie feeder

A baggy feeder is nothing more than a 3-inch deep super—a perfect tool for the hobbyist. You can buy them, build them, or slice an existing super into several layers. Each feeder will hold two 1-gallon plastic zip bags of sugar syrup. If you prefer, you can use just one bag of syrup and use the remaining space for pollen patties, grease patties, or whatever else you like to feed your bees.

Done correctly, the syrup won’t leak out of the bags. Bags should be filled only about two-thirds full. Just hold the bag upright by propping it in a deep bowl or pan and fill with cooled syrup. At this point you can add any supplements you want, such as Honey-B-Healthy or essential oils. Then carefully squeeze out most of the remaining air and close the zip top. Make sure the bag is zipped all the way to the ends.

Handle these bags carefully. If you squeeze or drop one . . . what a mess! I usually make several and place them side-by-side in a bucket. When you go to your hives, remember to bring a sharp blade or box cutter. I also carry a roll of duct tape in case of a pin-hole leak.

The hardest part of the entire process is placing the bag on top of the upper frame of bees. Once you remove the covers, the bees will flow out between the frames. Brushing them away may help, but I usually hold the bag over the bees, lower it till it touches the frames and slowly lower it more until it’s lying on its side. If you go slowly, the bees will move out of the way as it comes down.

Once it’s in place, you can slit the top. Some people make an “X” but I like three parallel lines about 2 inches (5 cm) apart. It seems like all the syrup might flow out, but it doesn’t. The plastic just floats on the surface and the bees line up at the slits and draw out the syrup. Somehow, they get every last drop out of the bags. After years of doing this, it still surprises me to see the totally empty bags.

The thing to remember is this: don’t cut too deep or you will slit the bottom as well. Be careful because the syrup will find its way through the tiniest nick. Also, don’t forget to install the feeder frame before you replace the covers.

The bags are good because they keep mold away from the syrup, they prevent bees from drowning, and the warmth from the cluster keeps the syrup from freezing. When the bags are empty, just throw them away. I’ve heard of people re-filling them, but I’ve never tried.

Rusty

4 comments to How to use a baggie feeder

  • [...] have come up with many methods to combat mold in syrup. One of my favorites is the baggie feeder because it severely limits the amount of syrup exposed to the air, and since the bees drink only [...]

  • Hello,

    I have read that a syrup mixture can only be utilized by the bees down to a certain temperature. I live in north Idaho where the winter temperature is below this mark. Our warmest winter day is below 40 and average is around 32. So does your experience tell you the same thing? Could my bees utilize a ziplock bag system?

    Thanks
    Keith

    • Rusty

      Keith,

      What you have read is correct. Liquid feed like sugar syrup cannot be given to bees when the temperatures are low enough that the bees go into a cluster. Liquid syrup is great for spring feeding and fall feeding, but cannot be used in the winter.

      Normally, sugar syrup is moved into the honey comb by the bees where it is dried by the bees fanning their wings. This is the same thing that bees do to the nectar that they collect from flowers. But cold temperatures make it impossible for them to dehydrate the syrup. So, instead, the syrup becomes moldy or freezes and the moisture from the syrup collects in the hive.

      For winter feeding you can use candy boards, fondant, candy cakes, or granulated sugar in a mountain camp feeder. All of these are solid at room temperature (or very nearly solid) so the bees don’t have to dehydrate them and they don’t give off moisture.

      Once the temperatures rise in the spring, you can use the baggie feeder.

    • Tina

      Hi Keith,
      From your question, I noticed you are beekeeping in North Idaho. Do you belong to a Beekeeping Club?
      We are new to beekeeping and wish to communicate with others in the area.
      Thank you, and happy beekeeping!

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