How to use a swarm guard

A swarm guard is similar to a queen excluder except it is designed to fit over the entrance to a hive. Just like a queen excluder, the swarm guard keeps both queens and drones from passing through because the wires are close together. Worker bees are small enough to pass through easily.

Swarm guards have their uses but they can only be used for short periods in particular circumstances. If swarm guards are left in place too long, then can produce disastrous results. For example:

  • Since drones can’t get in or out, the ones outside can’t return home and the ones inside can’t leave. You can get hundreds of dead drones piling up behind the guard until the entrance becomes virtually blocked to the workers. The workers can’t remove the dead drones either, so you are left with a big mess.
  • A swarm guard will prevent swarming for a time, but the presence of the guard won’t stop the swarm impulse. Eventually the swarm may leave with a virgin queen that is small enough to fit through the guard.
  • If you put the guard on when a virgin is getting ready to mate, she may not be able to get out. Or if you put it on when she is already out, she may not be able to get back in. In either case, you are creating a queenless hive.

Nevertheless, swarm guards can be useful tools. I use them sparingly for the following purposes:

  • Swarm guards are useful when installing new packages. Since the queen can’t leave the hive, the colony is unlikely to abscond with a swarm guard in place. I usually leave the guard in place until the new queen is laying eggs. Since there are no drones to get caught behind the guard, and you have a mated queen on the inside, it is safe to leave it on for a few days.
  • If I happen to see a colony that is itching to swarm, I install a swarm guard immediately. This stops the swarm from issuing long enough for me to gather equipment and set up a split. I’ve been able to forestall many swarms just by having one of these devices on hand. If I can’t do the split the same day, I take off the guard before dark so the drones can sort themselves out, then I do the split first thing the next morning.
  • During fall and winter when no drones or queens are coming and going, swarm guards can be used as mouse guards. Still, you have to remember to take them off before drones appear in the spring.

I’m sure other beekeepers have found creative ways to use swarm guards. Let us know what you do with them.

Rusty
HoneyBeeSuite

A swarm guard in place. Photo by Herb Lester.
A swarm guard in place. Photo by Herb Lester.

Mite management in large hives

I have been asked to explain why I believe large colonies make winter mite management easier. It’s important to note that I said easier and not easy. You still have to pay attention and you still have to do something.

It is interesting to me that people who prefer triple-deep hives frequently report successful mite management, and people who have not tried them claim that triples are mite factories. In my own case, I had been successfully overwintering 80 to 100 percent of my hives for many years until last year, when I switched from ApiLife Var to HopGuard. I “misinterpreted” the instructions, treated all my hives in the same insufficient way, and ended up losing most colonies to mites. I just happened to have a few triples in that group, and oddly enough, it was the triples that survived despite huge mite loads.

Okay, my story is merely anecdotal, but it piqued my curiosity. I began asking others about their experience with triples and heard many similar stories. I also did a lot of reading about the population dynamics of both mites and bees. So I will explain my theory but, alas, it is only a theory.

First, I agree that triples are mite factories but only because more bees produce more mites. For most of the year, mites/bee is no different in small colonies than in big ones. There is a maximum mite/bee ratio that can be reached before the colony just collapses—big or small.

The timing of mite treatments

Mite treatments have to be performed at the right time regardless of hive size. That time is when brood production is lowest, usually late summer or early fall depending on where you live. A small number of brood cells provide few places for the mites to breed, so most of them are riding around on the backs of bees. These adult mites are exposed to the mite treatment and are killed by it.

Some colonies have virtually no brood for a short period before fall build up, so if you can time your treatments right, you can get about a 95% kill rate. Some mites will survive, of course, and others will ride into the hive on visiting bees, but for the moment at least you have very few mites.

Hygienic behavior plays a part

All bees have some hygienic behavior, and bees can and do rid themselves of some adult mites and even pull infected brood out of cells and dispose of them. If you have two colonies—one small and one large—and both have nearly zero brood for that brief period—the large colony will have many fewer mites/bee than the small one. This gives the large hive a distinct advantage. Although both hives will experience an increase in mites subsequent to the treatment, the large colony has more bees to deal with each individual mite as they go into winter.

Although a large colony has a larger brood nest than a small colony, large colonies tend to have a smaller proportion of brood to adult bees. This is probably due to the fact that the colony is so large—enough bees to keep warm, enough bees to defend the hive, enough bees for hive duties, and certainly enough mouths to feed—that there is no compelling reason to make it larger or even to keep it as large. If the number of brood cells per adult bee stays low for an extended period, the winter cluster is in a better position to keep mite numbers down using only standard amounts of hygienic behavior. No matter what the task, large colonies nearly always out-perform small ones.

Can mites drown in a gene pool?

Related to this is simple genetics. A large population has a bigger pool of genetic traits, so in a large colony there is a greater probability that there are some bees that can successfully deal with mites. Remember that although the bees in a colony have the same mother, they have a variety of fathers, so there can be quite a bit of genetic variation. More bees mean more genetic variation and a higher probability that some bees will have good hygienic behavior.

During the winter neither small nor large hives have drone brood, which means mite built-up over winter is slower than in spring and summer. The reduced rate of mite build up allows the larger colony to maintain its advantage over the smaller one until colony expansion and drone production begin in the spring.

The ratio is key

Once spring expansion begins, however, the large colony will produce mites like crazy—lots of brood and especially lots of drones. If left alone at this time, mites will begin to overwhelm the colony. But by this time, the large colony can be split, re-queened, treated, or whatever the beekeeper prefers. The point is, the colony m­ade it through the winter because of a high bee to mite ratio at the critical time.

In this scenario, it is always the ratios at specific times of year that are important, never the specific numbers. The ratio of mites to bees and the ratio of bees to brood during the fall and winter are what tip the balance in favor of the large colony surviving until spring.

Rusty
HoneyBeeSuite

A beer box for bees

This is just a little thing—a Girl Scout “be prepared” kind of thing—but it makes life easier. Every year just before swarm season, I make sure I have a cardboard box big enough to hold a swarm. I usually use a beer box because they’re sturdy and easy to come by. I seal all the extra openings with duct tape, including the handles on the ends and the slit on the bottom. Then I just stick the box in the shed.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve run for the box over the years. I’ve scarfed up swarms in trees and bushes, swarms on fence posts, swarms under hives, and even one on the ground. Often I just clip off a branch and place the whole thing in there. Once I get it in the box, I just fold over the lid and take it to wherever I want to hive it. I’ve even left bees in the box overnight with no problem.

Having it ready in advance makes all the difference because I don’t end up scrambling around looking for something I just took to the recycle center. Before I started doing this I had a swarm leave a low branch and disappear while I was routing around looking for a container. How annoying.

I like a cardboard box because it is light, easy to carry around, and holds the bees in confinement (if well taped). It is small enough that I can climb a tree or hang off the edge of a building and not lose control of it. Besides that, I get to drink the beer, which is also fun.

Rusty
HoneyBeeSuite

Be sure to tape the handles and the bottom.
Be sure to tape the handles and the bottom.

The best ventilated gabled roof

Update 6/13/2012: At the end of the post I’ve added Bill’s how-to for building this roof. Or you can contact him directly if you would like to purchase a completed roof from him. His e-mail is: [email protected]

A ventilated gabled roof is one of my favorite pieces of beekeeping equipment. Warm air holds moisture, and the warmer the air, the more moisture it can hold. Since a summer beehive is loaded with moisture from both bee respiration and drying nectar, the hive can quickly become a damp, mold-infested environment that is not healthy for bees or good for making honey.

Winter is also problematic. Inside a cold hive, the bees’ breath warms the air immediately around the cluster. This warmer air rises until it reaches the cold inner cover where the moisture condenses, often dripping back down on the bees. In either case—winter or summer—the faster you can get rid of moist air, the better.

The ventilated gabled roof provides a double whammy to moisture-laden air. First, the gabled roof provides a place for this air to collect that is well above the supers. Secondly, the vents on each end of the gable give the air a way to escape. The extra height provided by the gable is important because the greater the distance between the inlet and the outlet, the better the draft. Assuming your air is coming in through the screened bottom board, the gable provides a nice tall “chimney” to draw air through the hive.

Of the ones I’ve seen, the very best ventilated gabled roof is made by beekeeper Bill Castro of Bee Friendly Apiary in Maryland. Bill wrote to me last year about the severe moisture problems he encountered after relocating from Colorado in 2008.

I had no issues with moisture until I moved to Maryland. . . . I immediately noticed how the build-up of moisture under the inner cover helped to form mold and mildew. I knew that the humid air here was a serious issue with cooling, since evaporation is nearly impossible. . . . After the winter of 2008, I opened the colonies in spring to find mold and mildew had built up all over the underside of the inner cover, on the tops of the upper super frames, and down the sides of the supers creating a very unhealthy environment.

I immediately took out all the frames and the inner covers . . . and scraped them down and sanded them clean. I then quickly brain-stormed and decided to make vented gable top covers and screened bottom boards. Since then, no issues with mold and mildew and the colonies perform much better.

Bill’s covers are made from pine with aluminum sheet metal covering the roof. The 1.75-inch vent holes are placed as high in the peak as possible for maximum effectiveness, and they are covered on the inside with #8 hardware cloth. The aluminum is folded over with no sharp edges, and a slight overhang protects the vent holes from sheeting rain. The woodwork is professional with tight seams, smooth edges, and star-drive wood screws. The slanted portion of the telescoping roof sits on the top outside edge of the hive, resulting in much less surface area where bees can be squished between cover and hive. Overall, it is a beautiful and effective design.

Rusty
HoneyBeeSuite

Hives with ventilated gabled roofs. Hives, covers, and photo by Bill Castro.
Hives with ventilated gabled roofs. Hives, covers, and photo by Bill Castro.


Here is an overview of the gabled top cover. I make them from 1 x 12 materials for the gabled sides and side rails. The top cover material is 3/8-inch plywood and all joints are screwed together for durability. I don’t like to use wafer board as it smells terrible and is loaded with Formaldehyde and I don’t want that near the bees.

All measurements are made for easy installation on 10 frame Langs.  All materials are easy to obtain from most hardware stores such as Home Depot or Lowes. The metal top material is extruded aluminum 24 inches wide. It can be found at any roofing supply house, but is sold in 50 foot rolls. It can also be found at most hardware stores that carry roofing supplies.

Bill
[email protected]

Bill’s ventilated gabled roof plan.
Bill’s ventilated gabled roof plan.

Shedding gloves naturally

I just read another lengthy diatribe about gloves. Apparently, if you wear gloves you are not a “real” beekeeper. This kind of BS irritates me no end.

This particular article wasted a lot of ink on how to wean yourself from gloves. You go from thick leather, to thin leather, to dishwashing gloves, to latex, to nothing. It talks about psyching yourself up for the task of bear-handedness. The first day you stand in the apiary—gloveless. Next day, you take off the outer cover—gloveless. And on and on. How inane.

The article has you “becoming accustomed” to your bees by smoking everything—the bee yard, your hands, clothing, outside the hive, inside the hive. Smoke, smoke, smoke. Clouds of it everywhere. That is moronic. That is not “becoming accustomed” to bees, that’s just replacing one suit of armor with another.

Speaking of smoke and psychology reminds me of a roommate I had in college. She was deathly afraid of snakes and signed up for a series of sessions designed to cure her fear. The first day she had to be in a room with a snake in a cage. The next time, she had to take one step closer. Then two steps . . . and so on, for weeks and weeks. But between sessions, she became so anxious she went from smoking a pack a day to two. Long term, which is worse? A fear of snakes or a two-pack a day habit?

I’ve seen a form of this in beekeepers, as well. Some newbees, in their lust to become “real,” simply avoid inspecting their hives altogether rather than having to do it gloveless. Sure, a thick glove my kill more bees than a bare hand, but long term, which is worse? Squishing a few extra bees or not checking them at all?

Beekeepers who have recently shed their gloves are the worst when it comes to giving advice. They are just as self-righteous as reformed drinkers, smokers, and sinners. Seriously, I’m happy for those people; they have accomplished something. But must they rub it in your face?

My advice to beekeepers? Forget it. Wear what makes you comfortable. You will do the best for your bees when you are relaxed around them.

The first time I did a gloveless hive inspection I didn’t even realize it until I was almost done. I was worried about the hive and had a mental list of things I wanted to check. I was so intent on not forgetting the list that I forgot my gloves instead. As I was putting the hive back together I got stung on the finger—and suddenly realized I was gloveless. That was easy enough.

This will happen to you, too. It will happen naturally—at the right time for you—without any stress or strange rituals. In the meantime, don’t make a stigma out of nothing. I still wear gloves when I feel like it. Or I don’t, if I don’t. If someone decides my gloves indicate I’m not a “real” beekeeper, that is their problem, not mine.

Rusty
HoneyBeeSuite

Wear them as long as you like.
Wear them as long as you like.