Ventilation Part 1: A hive is not a tree

How much ventilation to provide a hive of bees is another of those controversial issues that spans both winter and summer beekeeping. More often than not it seems that the “old-timers” are against adding ventilation, while the “newbees” are for adding more and more.

Whenever I try to assess a biological problem, I like to start by looking at how the situation is handled in nature. With that in mind, I started looking at the ventilation bees provide themselves in the wild and compared it to the ventilation in a hive. As it turns out, the two situations have very little in common, and so it is very difficult to translate conditions in one space to conditions in another.

Bees that live in the hollow of a tree frequently have no top ventilation. The cavity may open for some distance above the cluster, but at some point it is closed off. Based on this, many beekeepers think top ventilation is unnecessary.

But a tree is very different from a hive. For one thing a tree has more mass. More mass means there is a greater thermal buffer to fluctuations in outside air temperature. I know I’m not saying this like an engineer would, but a thing with lots of mass does not change temperature as quickly as a thing with less mass. For example, if you take a slice of bread and a hamburger patty out of the freezer and place them on the counter, the bread will thaw a lot faster because it has less mass.

The mass of the tree is a lot greater than the mass of the milled lumber that makes up the hive body, so the bees in the tree are more protected against rapid fluctuations in air temperature. This insulation means that condensation forms more slowly.

Also, the condensation that does form may be absorbed—to some extent—by the tree itself. A cavity in a tree may contain rotting wood or punky material that actually soaks up the condensation like a sponge and prevents the moisture from dripping down on the bees. Bees handle the cold quite well, but cold and wet is a deadly combination.

Another thing I’ve noticed is that the one opening the bees have in the wild is usually larger than the tiny winter openings we traditionally give our bees. Openings are often 3 or more inches across in the wild, or they may be long and narrow slits. In either case, they allow substantially more air exchange than the ½-inch by 1-inch opening we often provide.

What I conclude from these observations is that we can’t compare a hive to a tree. Instead, we have to compensate for the short-comings of our hives and make them do what a tree can do naturally.

The biggest shortcoming of a Langstroth hive is its inability to buffer the temperature changes which cause large amounts of condensation to form—condensation that has no way to get out.

As humans, we spend a lot of effort to get rid of excess moisture in our homes, our buildings, our cars, our factories—everywhere. We know that excess moisture is bad for human health, animal health, and the longevity of material goods. We know the excess moisture facilitates the growth of molds, fungus, and pathogenic organisms. Shouldn’t we apply what we know about excess moisture to our bees? Don’t we owe them that much?

Rusty
HoneyBeeSuite

Comments

jess
Reply

Aren’t there certain types of hives that have absorbent layers of wood shavings and stuff in them? I was reading something about this recently, but maybe the language barrier thwarted me. The condensation really does concern me. I want a tiny, doll-house sized dehumidifier for my hive, but I suspect that they would build comb on it and clog the intake/output vents.

Rusty
Reply

Yes, they are called Warre hives. I plan to write about them in Ventilation Part Later. They’re pretty interesting.

Steven C
Reply

Nice analysis. I am a 2nd year beekeeper running Langstroth hives with screened bottom boards in Central MA. I haven’t had problems with condensation even through the winter (I left the SBBs in over the winter). All my hives made it through the winter. Also I saw some chalkbrood on some frames of a hive I started from a nuc I bought, but it went away the next season (I blame the chalkbrood on the sealed bottom of the nuc…).

I think I’ll always run SBB bottoms…

bill castro
Reply

In my toiling with removing bees from various types of structures, I have found a couple other differences in hives built for bees by humans and places bees like to set up their colony. The first is the lack of maintained space in buildings and cavities that the bees will willingly colonize.

Several building removals I have done have revealed the lack of maintained combs in very large multi-year colonies. Most older combs are highly prone to pests such as wax moth and SHB. During the late summer and fall, most large prosperous colony populations contract quite considerably, leaving highly exposed combs that are not patrolled or occupied. These unoccupied combs become prey for apiary pests and become part of the sometimes massive debris that plague healthy colonies. These debris piles can become extremely overwhelming on the colony and in some cases cause the colony to abscond the following spring. A maintained hive can have the unoccupied frames removed and stored for the following season without danger of becoming prey to wax moth and SHB.

I have also noticed that some buildings also cause additional moisture build-ups. Trees, for example, have the ability to respirate a certain amount of moisture from their core. Painted boxes become moisture retaining vessels, often rotting from the interior out, leaving a thin shield of paint. Hive bodies can be ventilated with SBB and ventilating tops.

KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK RUSTY!!

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