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When should I put my mason bees outside?

Good question. If you are keeping mason bees in cold storage—whether in a garage, shed, or refrigerator—it is time to get them outside. Although conditions differ with latitude, nature tells us when the time is right.

As a rule of thumb, when things begin to bloom, the mason bees should be free to emerge. The blooming plants you see should be within a couple hundred feet of the mason bee housing. Unlike honey bees, mason bees will not fly long distances to find food, so it has to be close.

Early blooming plants here include crocus, scilla, vinca, skunk cabbage, and snow drops followed quickly by forsythia, dandelion, and oemleria. Once you see a few things start to bloom, you can safely put your bees outside.

If you don’t trust yourself to remember by looking at plants, just think March 1. Spring mason bees (Osmia lignaria) are generally active March, April, and May, so March 1 is a reliable date to use.

Although some people will keep mason bees in cold storage through April, I think it is better for the bees to be active when their wild counterparts are active. This will give your bees the best opportunity to mate with local wild populations and maintain maximum genetic diversity.

You can minimize the danger of wind and cold with a few simple steps:

  • Mount your mason bee house so it faces south or southeast. This will provide maximum sun exposure.
  • Attach a sloping and overhanging roof to your bee house to shed excess rain, or mount the bee house under an eave.
  • Plant early blooming flowers close to the mason bee housing. The males will emerge first and need nectar-producing flowers right away. The females will emerge later, and they will require both nectar- and pollen-producing blooms.

I saw my first mason bee last week on March 13. He was drinking nectar from a Vinca minor while all around him honey bee workers and queen bumbles were working the Scilla.

Male-mason-bee-on-vinca
A healthy male mason bee sipping nectar from Vinca minor. Photo © Rusty Burlew

Comments

HB (@Hello_Kitty_)
Reply

Ooh, you’re making me feel like I’m behind on my duties! I always wait for the Spring Equinox, and even then I only put out a portion of my cocoons, maybe 25%. A week later, I put out another 25%. I put out the rest when I see mason bees have hatched and are using my nest.

Colorado winters have a bad habit of not wanting to end. Last year each time I put cocoons out, we had an unexpected snow storm. Each time, it was cold enough to destroy whatever was flowering… no maple blossoms, no crabapples, no ornamental pears… poor bees had nothing to eat. I finished the season with fewer cocoons than I started, and the cocoons I have are on the small side. 🙁

I worry that my bees are using up their fat reserves, but I am still waiting for the buds on my pear tree to swell just a little bit more.

Rusty
Reply

HB,

If you’ve got a system that works, you shouldn’t feel bad. All beekeeping is local, even mason bee keeping.

Barbara Blackburn
Reply

Hi Rusty, Just new to your site but it looks so informative! Do you have a favorite type of house for your mason bees? If so, can you tell me your preference? One with removable straws or not?
Thank you,
Barbara

Rusty
Reply

Barbara,

If you want to raise just mason bees (rather than housing a variety of bee species) then I would use paper straws. Hairy-footed mites are definitely a problem when you have a monoculture of mason bees.

Glen Buschmann
Reply

HI Rusty –

Unless the beekeeper is running a commercial operation that must manipulate emergence, I encourage people to put stored mason bees out early and let nature set some of the schedule. Males emerge first, assess conditions, and if warranted helps females get out, (he cuts open the cocoon from the outside, pulls her out of her sleeping bag). Tunnel systems, (this includes straws) seem better than loose cocoons for this, as the cocoons are in order – males in front, females in back. Bees generally stagger their emergence based on conditions, waiting for breaks in the weather.

Of course Colorado is different than PNW, and bees are kept in the fridge as much to protect them from getting too cold as too warm. I wonder if there may be other native pollinators better suited to conditions described, (they maybe won’t live in human-made housing, but that is o.k. The challenge is that the natives may be unaccustomed to some of the early blooming Eurasian crop plants we grow that bloom on a schedule different than Colorado. I also might also look into outdoor storage that is better insulated against temperature fluctuations. As you point out Rusty, the closer to the local ecosystem the better.

Bees seem to vary their size quite a bit, depending on both food and housing available. I had a male mason bee emerge today bigger than the typical female, from one of my larger diameter tubes. But small works, might be better in some circumstances. Maybe Colorado mason bees will prosper better as small bees in 1/4″ tunnels.

My favorite system is botanical tubes — empty hollow plant stems. One reason I like botanical tubes is size variety. Botanicals also can go outside with less protection. Because every location is different I won’t name specific plants except to mention that some folk use bamboo which works but is tough to cut. Instead, I’d explore, cut different tall fast-growing plants and look for hollow stems. If suitable, then give the stems a try. Paper straws work fine, but paper is water absorbent, so they need more external protection. I make my own by rolling newspaper around a 5/16″ or 3/8″ dowel. YOU MUST LINE EACH NEWSPAPER TUNNEL WITH PLAIN PAPER, (no newpaper ink exposed inside the tunnels).

Glen B
Olympia, WA

Steve - Busy Bee Farm - Larkspur, Colorado
Reply

Hi Folks – new to this site – caught you via a Google Alert. re: this topic – I am confused. By the question I assume you are bringing your mason bees inside somewhere and then putting the back out again? From my experience, I question why this is/was done. Mason bees that build out into an artificial or natural space will emerge when they are programmed to – “need to” – if you will. I can see no reason to bring them in unless there is a fear of predation by some other insect or animal. In which case, I would still leave them outside and take measures like hardware cloth or a high location to take care of this worry.

Steven Lechner
Busy Bee Farm
Larkspur, Coloraodo

Rusty
Reply

Hi Steven,

Welcome to the site. Yes, I agree. I do not bring my mason bees inside, but there are people who do. One of the reasons here in the Pacific Northwest is the rain. Here in the coastal areas we have rain from October thru June—basically nine months of it. I go out of my way to keep my mason bees sheltered, but if you don’t have shelter they will “sog out” by spring—mold, fungus, you name it.

The other reason people may have them indoors is because they mail-ordered them. They arrive in a loose tube, not a good overwintering site, so people keep them inside till spring. I wrote the post for those people who have mail-ordered them and are unsure when to put them out.

I agree that outside is where they should be so they can overwinter properly and decide for themselves when to emerge. Not everyone agrees with that philosophy, however, and so I’ve tried to give those folks some guidelines for choosing a time.

Ron
Reply

Steven, I live in Colorado just west of Denver. Do you think I can have success in raising mason bees? I have a lot of fruit trees, but they don’t bloom till around the middle of May. Thanks Ron

Mike
Reply

This is my second year with mason bees. As I understand it one major reason to bring them indoors for winter is to keep them away in the fall from parasites. I noticed some parasitism on some cocoons left outside past June 1st. I would rather keep them outside all year but had parasites the first year so I’ll continue bringing them in.

Patrick
Reply

I refrigerate my cocoons because of the erratic temperatures. A few days above 50 in February, and the bees might start emerging and find no blooming plants to feed on.

Rusty
Reply

Excellent reason.

Stacey
Reply

They did not return ? Thank you

Melissa
Reply

This is new territory for me overall. I am merely exploring the idea of a bee house, but have one big question. IF they collect and store their pollen and turn out to NOT be mason bees that seal the openings, will this be in conflict with the 3 hives of honeybees already on the property? Will this encourage robbing from them?

Rusty
Reply

Melissa,

I don’t know if I understand your question. The only thing that will build in the tubes are solitary bees (there are many species besides masons that could build in the tubes, depending on the hole size) and a few types of solitary wasps. None of these insects pose any threat to a honey bee colony. Robbing of honey bee colonies is conducted mainly by other honey bees or by social wasps that also live in large colonies, such as yellowjackets and some hornets. Also some ants attack honey bee colonies, but again, ants are social and live in large colonies.

There is no colony behavior with solitary bees and solitary wasps, which is why they are called solitary. One female bee or wasp builds and maintains her own nest. They may live in communities, but each nest (tube) is maintained by one female bee. I can’t imagine anything living in a mason bee house being a threat to a honey bee colony.

Barb
Reply

Hi from Colorado Springs, CO. We were watching PBS and saw a show on Mason bees. Now we are interested in building our own house to put in our 8×10 ft garden. Being late March, we will put it out now. Glad to find a site where we can ask questions as we continue in this process. Thank you.

Ron
Reply

My mason bees started to emerge and there’s no flowering going on, some dandelions, none of my fruit trees yet, they’re about two weeks from bloom. It’s April 28th and were still getting snow. Will the bees that have hatched make it, and is there a way to put off the hatching in the future till the second week of May?

Rusty
Reply

Ron,

There’s nearly always something in bloom, and the bees are better at finding those things than we are. Mason bees are fine in cooler temperatures than many bees, and they know how to care for themselves. You can put off hatching by keeping them in the refrigerator, but you don’t want to go too late. The males hatch a week or so earlier than the females, and you don’t want your fruit trees to come into bloom with only the males around.

Ron
Reply

Thanks so much for getting back with me.

Cathy
Reply

I recently bought a mason bee house if I hang it near my garden will the bees move into it? or do I have to buy bees? Should I wait until spring to set the house out or should I put it out now?

Rusty
Reply

Cathy,

You can just put the house outside, and if you position it well, local mason and leafcutting bees will nest in it. It is my belief that it is better not to buy bees because locally adapted bees will do better, and you don’t run the risk of introducing a bee pathogen or parasite. The openings should fast south or southeast and be in the sun most of the day, particularly in the morning hours. I don’t know where you live, but I like to put them out in early spring before the first fruit trees bloom. If you put them out now, you run the risk of getting earwigs and other undesirables. I put mine under the eaves of my house and garden shed, which adds a little rain protection. It’s fun to watch the bees build. The mason bee species will seal up their holes with mud, and the leafcutting bees will use colorful petals or leaves. Too cool.

kevin B
Reply

Hi,

I live in Monument, Colorado and I put out my mason bees attached to a tree and a few days ago they were moving around and coming out of their box… We had a snow storm last night and I went to look at them this morning and they all looked dead. The temp got in to the mid 20’s…

Do I have to worry?

Thanks
Kevin

Rusty
Reply

Kevin,

They are probably fine. Solitary bees have evolved to endure erratic shifts in weather. Honey bees are a bit different, but the cold affects them in similar ways: Dead bees rising.

kevin B
Reply

Thanks for the reply.

One other thing. I put my mason bee house in a south facing tree with the “box o bees” I just purchased with a hole in the bottom attached to the tree right above them. Is there anything I can do to prevent the birds that may fly by to not to eat them?

I put up old silver CD’s hanging to deter them.

thanks again
kevin

Rusty
Reply

Kevin,

I don’t think so. Some people put chicken wire or something similar around the nest to keep birds from pecking into the holes, but birds can get the bees while they are out foraging too. It’s one reason bees lay so many eggs—to assure some make it.

kevin B
Reply

hi…

Another question. I got a box o bees and when they arrived a few were in cocoons and a few were alive and moving around. I purchased a Mason bee house. I was wondering if I should insert the cocoons in the hive and leave the rest in the box with a hole in it?

Thanks
Kevin

Rusty
Reply

Kevin,

Just to clarify, solitary bees like masons (Osmia) do not live in hives. A hive is a man-made structure that houses social insects, whereas masons are solitary cavity dwellers. I’m clarifying so that other people reading this are not confused by it.

Now, to answer. It’s too bad that some bees had already emerged. That is not a good sign because you don’t know how long they’ve been out of their cocoons, but they have not been able to eat or drink during that time. You should leave both the cocoons and the emerged bees in the box with the hole in it, and mount that box close to the mason bee house. You might also consider putting a shallow dish with sugar water within a few feet of the box to give those early bees something to eat. Be sure to put rocks or marbles in the water so the bees have something to stand on.

Kevin J Barney
Reply

Thanks for the info, Rusty…
Hopefully the snow that coming won’t harm them..
Kevin

kevin B
Reply

Hi,

I put out the mason bees after our last snowfall…(it’s in the 70’s now) with flowers all around, bee clay at fence, and a plate of sugar water…

I haven’t seen the bees in 2 days.. Do they always come back to the house? Do you think they just moved on?
What do you think I should do?

kevin

Rusty
Reply

Kevin,

You say you put them out after the last snowfall. How long ago was that? Mason bees nearly always come back to nest in the same area where they emerged. Did you see many out and about earlier? Did you see any females filling tubes? I can’t imagine them going anywhere very far. If they are alive, you should be seeing them, unless they’ve been active for quite a while. Also, I don’t know were you live, so I can’t get about the climate.

Kevin J Barney
Reply

I put them out about six days ago after the last snowfall. Temps are now in the high 60s low 70s. I live in Monument Colorado. I haven’t seen any since I released them last Monday. I have bee clay… flowers and sugar water out below the tree and on the fence next to them….

Rusty
Reply

Kevin,

It seems to me that you should be seeing the bees flying and mating near to their box. It is possible the cocoons weren’t properly stored and that they were not in good condition when you received them. Personally, I don’t favor shipping mason bees. I just put out mason bee housing and it soon fills with local bees that are adapted to my area. If your bees have perished, leave your housing in place anyway in the hopes you attract some locals.

Kevin J Barney

Thanks…

I received the mason bees from two different companies and when looking inside the Box they came in all of them except maybe three out of the 20 broke out of their cocoons……

Oh well ….. all I can do is leave it up and hope for the best

Thanks

Rusty

Kevin,

They should have been still in their cocoons when you received them. Don’t buy from those companies again.

Kevin J Barney

They were in cocoons….by the time I put up the box to let them out they broke out of their cocoons.

Kevin J Barney
Reply

Hi…

I live in Monument Colorado dot dot dot dot Our last snowfall was last Saturday and then we have 65 degree temperatures by Monday. I put them out in the late morning on that Monday and we’ve been having very warm temperatures ever since all week. I saw them in emerge on Monday afternoon but periodically I go up and look and see if there’s any be activity and I don’t see any…

I put out the bee nest last week…. flowers are all around and even a plate of sugar water with rocks in it. I also purchased be clay to put below the tree….

Can’t understand it

Thanks
Kevin

Rusty
Reply

Kevin,

If you saw some emerge and then no more, perhaps they died. Sometimes, though, if they were stored in a really cold environment, it takes them a couple weeks to emerge. Maybe the outside ones emerged because they were warmer, but the inside ones are not yet ready. Be patient. There isn’t much more you can do but wait.

Gary
Reply

Kevin,

Did the rest of your bees ever emerge?

Kevin J Barney
Reply

No Gary,

I put them out about six weeks to two months ago and they all emerged, flew away and never returned. I don’t see any in my garden this year. I released between 30 and 50 from their cocoons. I have flowers out in the garden. Almost all of them are pollinator flowers…..

Pretty disappointing.

Kevin

Rusty
Reply

Kevin,

That is strange. According to Oregon State Extension, mason bees have a flying range of 100–300 feet, which means you should have seen them around. Are the flowers in your garden suitable for mason bees? Do you have fruit trees? Did you see other bees on your flowers? Where the cocoons close to the nesting blocks? Also, six weeks to two months ago is really late, about May 5th through 19th. I think they like to be out by mid-March.

Kevin J Barney
Reply

The cocoons box was right on top of the honeycomb cocoon nest… I had put flowers around the side fence which is only 6 feet away. My pollinating flowers are only 50 ft away. No other bees are around..

Rusty
Reply

Kevin,

No other bees make me very suspicious, because if the flowers were attractive to pollinators, you would get some types of bee interested. I’m wondering if maybe the flowers are highly inbred or perhaps hybrids? Those often do not attract pollinators. The best pollinator flowers are heritage breeds, open-pollinated, and not bred to have special colors or extra petals. If you saw no bees on the flowers, I suspect the masons were forced to go elsewhere.

Gary
Reply

I would have to agree with Rusty. It sounds like they moved on to greener pastures. No bees hanging around means there’s no quality pollen nearby. Hybrid flowers are not good at producing pollen, and won’t attract any bees.

Trees that generate pollen (our Linden attracts a huge swam every summer) are quite good. If your garden has vegetables such as squash, that should attract them, too.

I’m sorry you didn’t get to keep them around, but there’s always next year! We are all learning as we go.

Ellen
Reply

I live near a headland along the the north central coast of Oregon. We get strong south and southwest wind driven rains all winter long. I bought a bee box with a roof overhang but I worry that it is not enough to protect the box from the rains and I want to know if the wind driven rains will be too much for the bees to winter over. I would like to leave the box out all year long. This coming spring will be the first time I will hang a bee box so I am planning ahead. Thank you.

Rusty
Reply

Ellen,

Because we get so much rain, I take my native bee boxes in during the winter. They shouldn’t be kept warm, just dry. So I keep mine in my garden shed. Anyplace that is unheated and dry should work. I set them on a shelf for the winter and then put them back out in about March.

Faith
Reply

I’m new to this. Does my bee house have to be mounted, or can I just place it on a brick walk facing south or in the flowerbed itself? I assume that if it’s been out all winter that the tubes will have to be replaced at some point? When would that be? Midsummer? I live in northwestern Illinois, about 50 miles from the Iowa border.

Rusty
Reply

Faith,

You can place the bee house on a brick or in a flower bed, but it needs to not wiggle or move once the bees get started with nest building. When the tubes need to be replaced, you need to put them in a hatching box in spring so the bees don’t go back to them. Or you can harvest the cocoons out of the tubes in fall and put the cocoons in the hatching box in spring. You can’t do anything in mid-summer or you risk damaging next year’s bees.

ROBERT
Reply

Hello. This is my second year. I have my cocoons in small boxes in the fridge. Males and females are separated. I am in Northwest Washington. The bee house I built has an attic. I plan on putting a piece of cardboard in front of the attic to protect the cocoons in the boxes with a small hole in it. Do you have any suggestions that would improve this plan. I have two bee blocks that I made and I plan to build more to hang from the bottom of the bee house for expansion. Thanks. Happy beekeeping

Rusty
Reply

Robert,

No improvement. I find that they do best in full sun, though, so the sunlight shines clearly though the hole.

Jackie
Reply

Hi Rusty,

I live in Boulder, Colorado and received several mason bee houses for Christmas to place in my garden in March. Happy to pollinate. I understand they will be inhabited by local mason bees that will make their cocoons in them. Now what? Should I plan to keep the cocoons over winter, become a “beekeeper”, or just let nature take its course with the bee houses?

Rusty
Reply

Jackie,

It depends on how involved you want to be. You can just leave them outside and see if they make it from year to year, or you can be proactive by harvesting the cocoons and keeping them refrigerated. People do it either way.

Anna F.
Reply

If I make the overhang on the mason bee house wider so the rain doesn’t get them wet, would this affect the bees adversely? The overhangs on the roofs of the mason bee houses seem so narrow, 1 inch or so. Could I put a 3 inch overhang onto the bee house? This is my first year, so I appreciate your website.

Rusty
Reply

Anna,

A three-inch overhang sounds fine. I tuck my bee houses under the eaves of my shed and that is about 18 inches. It’s never been a problem.

Brian
Reply

Is central NM at 6000 feet good habitat for masons?

Rusty
Reply

Brian,

There are many different species of mason bee, so I’m certain it’s right for some of them.

Jim
Reply

Just got my mason bees and house mounted on Saturday, 4/7/18. Day time temp has varied from 55 to 68 since I mounted the bee house. I have two 6″ tubes of male and two 6″ tubes of female bees. I’m looking at the forecast and were in for a cold snap, day time temps in the high 40’s and night time temps in the high 30’s. My cherry tree is in full bloom and I am worried that the mason bees won’t hatch in time. Should I be thinking about hand pollinating a 4 year old Rainer, Bing and Chelan tree.

Rusty
Reply

Jim,

You can hand pollinate if you want, but unless you go crazy with pesticides, there should be plenty of early cold-weather bees out there pollinating your trees. Most of them are really small, about the size of fruit flies, so you may not notice them.

As for the mason bees, they generally should be put out around March 1. The males hatch first by a few days, and then the females. Sounds like yours won’t make it for this year’s cherries.

Rhonda
Reply

We’re hosting a summer event for youth that is focusing on skilled trade employment fields including carpentry and agriculture. We’re thinking of having the participants build mason bees houses for a project since it will tie together both those fields nicely into a fun hands-on project. Our event isn’t until the middle of June. Is that too late for participants to set their completed houses out? Since we’re not supplying them with bees, are there some strategies to successfully attract native bees? I’d like to give the participants enough information on what to do and how to do it so their successful and more likely to continue. Any information is appreciated. Thank you!

Rusty
Reply

Rhonda,

Pollinator houses with tunnels attract a wide variety of bees, only some of which are mason bees. Although most species appear in early spring, tunnel-nesting bees also appear in summer and early fall. So you may get some bees after June. Probably not as many, but some including leafcutting bees, summer masons, and ceratina. If you want a wide variety of bees, you need to provide a wide variety of hole sizes from about 1/16 of an inch up to about 5/16 in 1/16-inch increments. Place the completed houses in a sunny but protected location near to flowers, a water supply, and a source of mud. Each location is different. You may get a lot of bees or none; it’s hard to predict.

Matt
Reply

I too have been raising solitary bees for about 8 years now. I have used rolled up copy paper (plain white paper) for nests and have even drilled into dead stumps. My preferred method is using 2x4s. I like to drill 3, 3/8 inch diameter holes that run 8 inches deep. My boards are about 10 to 12 inches long.

My bees emerged late this year (south of Denver), some time around mid June. My elevation is 6200 feet. Last year they emerged around May 1st. I don’t know why they were a month late this year. When I first started doing this in northern Wyoming, my bees emerged around May 1st. I don’t have “houses” per say, just 2x4s on the back porch. They do get preyed upon occasionally by spiders and other insects but I try my hardest to protect them. Bees are my insect “children” Ha!

Gloria Jouper
Reply

I ordered 25 mason bee cocoons. I have them in my fridge. Do I put them in a tube and put then in my bee house? If so how many in a tube.? They don’t seem to be sexed. Do we put mud in the front of the tube? Thank You, Gloria

Rusty
Reply

Gloria,

No, you do not put them in the tube or use mud. Just put the tubes in your bee house and put the cocoons in a protected spot close to the tubes where they can emerge when ready. I recommend you put the cocoons in a little box with a hole on one end aimed at the sun. After they emerge from the cocoons, they will go though the hole to the outdoors.

Dan F
Reply

I’m a newbie to mason bees but am excited to try them in the community garden I manage. I have a couple of mason houses coming with all the same hole size. I’m in MN so was thinking to install as soon as possible. Any harm in that? Also, next year after emergence, is that the best time to clean out the holes for the next cycle? Thanks, this blog is great!

Rusty
Reply

Dan,

That doesn’t really work, because even before they all emerge, others will have started refilling the empties. The best thing to do is to put the cocoons or the complete straws in a hatching box (also called an emergence box) and put out new tubes for the next generation.

Erin
Reply

I hope someone here can help me. Last summer I noticed some bees going into brick holes on our house. I’m a native gardener and wanted to help them out so I purchased a mason bee house with cardboard tubes. Within days all the tubes were sealed up with mud. The tubes stayed sealed through the remainder of summer until now. I did not brings the tubes inside for winter. I noticed a few days ago that most of the tubes now have holes on the ends which appears that the bees have come out for the season. Can I now remove these old tubes and put new ones in? Am I too late? I don’t want the bees to reuse these older tubes and have disease issues. There isn’t much info on the internet on how to care for houses/bees if they are left out all winter. Please tell me what I should do next.

Rusty
Reply

Erin,

In most cases leaving them outside is fine. Zillions of these bees live in the wild and no one takes them in. The instant the bees emerge, they start filling the tubes again, so it’s best to use an emergence box. In late winter, you put the tubes or cocoons in the box with a small hole in it. When the bees emerge they leave through the hole but are reluctant to go into a dark place to look for a nest, so they don’t. So basically, you are too late for this year. However, tubes should be replaces after two or three years, so I don’t see any issues here.

Erin
Reply

I would like to add one additional comment. I just checked the tubes outside with a flashlight and I can only see 1 bee inside an opened tube. The other open tubes are too difficult to see inside. Should I move these tubes to an emergence box? If so what please explain what kind of box this would be and where I should place in my yard. Thank you!

Rusty
Reply

Erin,

At this point I would leave them alone. Don’t micromanage, if you can help it.

Erin
Reply

Hi Rusty. I posted a question here last night but it has disappeared. Anyway let me try again. I left my mason bee house out over the winter with all the tubes being filled. I’m here in MI and the weather has been really up and down lately. I checked the tubes last night with flashlight and most are open but still a few sealed. Am I too late to add new tubes to this house? Where should I move the remainder of the filled tubes so the rest can emerge? How do I know if anyone is using the old tubes if there is only a tiny opening in the one end? Would the bee clear out all of the old mud before reusing?

Rusty
Reply

Erin,

Unless you’ve kept track of every tube, it’s hard to tell which are old and which are new. I would leave them alone at this point.

Lona
Reply

Hi, we have one of the oval bamboo bee suites. We are asking is it ok to use cedar shingles to cover the bee home from rain, or will the cedar upset the bees? Thank you sooo much, be having wonderful moments ???

Rusty
Reply

Lona,

Please don’t confuse bees with moths. Cedar is not good for moths but has no impact on bees.

Dan
Reply

Rusty,

We just received a mason bee house as a present. I live in southwest Connecticut and it’s mid June so I’m assuming that it’s too late to put it up this year for mason bees. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

Thanks,
Dan

Rusty
Reply

Dan,

It’s too late for early mason bees like Osmia lignaria or Osmia cornifrons, but it’s not too late for the summer mason bees that are just starting to emerge. You may also get leafcutting bees in the summer, and sometimes small resin bees. I would put it up and see what happens.

debbie barrett
Reply

Hello Rusty-

I enjoy your website and could use some help and want to understand what went wrong with my mason bee housing.

I had purchased 2 new mason bee houses, and put them up early spring. All was progressing very well, and the majority, if not all holes were ultimately filled and capped with mud. I left the boxes as is, did not touch them, did not protect them with any netting or chicken wire (did not know I need to protect them), and then one day (around end of May/early June) I noticed all the mud capped tubes, and I mean every single capped tube, was open, and does not appear anything is inside them.

Something got to them and ate them???

While researching, I am learning about the wasps and other predators. I’m thinking it might have been a bird since all the tubes were opened in such a short period.

I am very sad and do not want to make the same mistake next year. What are your thoughts as to what happened and what I can do better next time.

Thank you, Debbie

Rusty
Reply

Hi Debbie,

It’s hard to know who got them without actually seeing it, but it could be a bird or large insect. It could even be a small rodent. I now take my tubes inside as soon as nesting starts to slow down. If there are some stragglers, I leave a few tubes for them, but I put the rest where they can’t be attacked.

If it’s birds, you can put wire netting around the mason bee houses. Poultry netting will work for most birds, but sometimes a smaller mesh works best, depending on the kind of birds you have. If it’s tiny rodents, you may want to use 1/4-inch wire mesh. You may have to experiment until you figure out what’s getting them.

debbie barrett
Reply

Thank you for your reply Rusty. Now I have another question-I am watching the mason bee house carefully and notice it’s being used by leafcutter bees, since I see the leaf cappings.

Although it’s not nearly as busy as in the spring, the holes that are capped are now being eaten as well, as the days pass I see holes in the leaf cappings, or the leaf cappings are gone, and I see leaf pieces strewn below.

I notice very small, I call them gnat, flying about, not sure what they are and if they are going in the tubes, some ants going in the tubes, and small blackish bees (?) going in, sometimes with pollen on its underside, and other times going in and pushing the pollen out of the tube and ultimately flying away with the larva (?). Wish I had pictures, wish I knew exactly who is the culprit.

The ants I have some ideas to try. But how do I cover and protect the house and tubes from these types of flying predators if the solitary bees are still using them? It seems are soon as the tubes are filled, some type of flying predator comes in. Thank you again.

Rusty
Reply

Debbie,

As soon as the holes are capped, I take the tubes (or the whole pollinator house) and store it in a garage or shed. Lots of things can attack the filled holes, including tiny wasps the size or fruit flies. Also, larger wasps, ants, and birds are common. Sometimes you have to take down the housing even when some bees are still actively using it in order to protect the majority. The few stragglers will find other places in the environment to use.

Stephanie
Reply

Hello Rusty,

I just purchased a mason bee house from my local farmer’s market. I live in the Maryland and want to know when is the best time to put it outside for the bees to use. Is August too late, or should I wait until the spring?

Rusty
Reply

Stephanie,

I would wait until late March. You could possibly get some late summer bees, although in my experience you are much more likely to get them in spring.

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